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Front lower control arm, performance oriented bushing upgrade.

scotman

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#1
Each of the three components being installed on the control arms will have their own series of images and text. They each require a slightly different method to get installed.
 
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scotman

scotman

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Thread Starter #2
I'm slowly getting this upgrade loaded. My smartphone is maxed out on memory. So, several attempts are required to get the images to stick.
 
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scotman

scotman

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Thread Starter #3
Ball joints are first. I used a few scrap pieces of 2X4 as a cushion for the control arm as I drive out the worn ball joints.
New control arms are not very expensive (approx $65.00). But, I think it's a better deal to get new ball joints for $20 and then knocking out the old bushings. I don't think that putting in just new poly bushings and keeping the old ball joints is a good idea. Everything should be in top condition if you are interested in doing a bushing upgrade! The cost of the new ball joints is a minor expense and a major part of the upgrade to get precise handling.
I used a fine wire brush to clean the perimeter of the ball joint and then sprayed it with a penetrating oil, in this case JB-80. It's a little more oily than WD-40. The joint was knocked out with two good hits.
 

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scotman

scotman

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Thread Starter #4
The first image is the new service replacement ball joints. AC Delco # 45D1530. They are not designed with zerk fittings, I couldn't find any aftermarket joints for the Fiesta that had them. I really wanted that feature.
Anyways, these were very easy to install. They include a new bolt and nut for the knuckle and also had a external snap ring, O.E. do not have that. So, these might be a little easier to do because the tolerance is not as tight. They did press in snugly and I had no issues with putting the snap ring on the joint.
The second image is the joint being pressed into the arm. I think a large C clamp and a deep socket big enough to clear the ball joint would have been just as good
 

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Handy Andy

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#5
New Hardware all around makes perfect sense - even if only for drivability.

Thanks for showing us this...

I would like to see how the Lower Control arms are removed and installed.

If you have nothing to do, this kind of job can make a day of it.
 
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#6
It's too bad they don't have grease fittings anymore, but the ball joints are not loaded so they should last a very long time.

Did I miss it or did you not post what bushings you are using?
 
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scotman

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Thread Starter #7
Yup! I couldn't find a ball joint with a zerk fitting. I was not even looking only at price! If one was available for even ten bucks more a piece, I would have bought it. I love greasable components.
My delay on the bushings is a confusing situation with what I ordered and what I got. I got twice the quantity of what I ordered for the position #2 bushings. So, two of those were returned. But I'm short on the position #1 bushings. So I'm spinning my wheels at the moment. I was planning on using Powerflex. But I might be able to walk into a retail store in Toledo and walk out with Whiteline. I will need to get moving on this soon, I need to get this done and on to the next thing. I am literally trying to check off a task list!
 
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scotman

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Thread Starter #9
I'm aware of them. I guess that they are good to have in the mix if I were running smooth racing tires or maybe very heavily shaved tires. Because then the harshness wouldn't matter because the car wouldn't be a street driven Fiesta.
I didn't use those rack bushings for that reason. I'm not going to have slicks or shaved tires. I believe that the tread squirm/slippage would give me some compliance. If you guys are interested in what those bushings would be like I can do them! It's not an expensive thing and looks very simple to install. I have another rack on the shelf that I can swap out if the solid mounts are too harsh.
It will be several weeks before I can post the install of the rack bushings, the website says that those parts are made to order.
 
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#10
I would do the delrin ones if anything. I have a solid mount rack in my truck, but it was never bushed, so I have nothing to compare it to. I 'm just asking the experienced guy stuff to see what's worth it or not. My car is essentially brand new still (less than 5k miles), so it drives great. I'm ok with where the limitations are for the most part.
 
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scotman

scotman

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Thread Starter #11
I have been wrenching on the steering rack and subframe, both in the car and on a work bench. It is very solidly attached to the subframe and really doesn't have a huge amount of flexible material around the bolt. My impression is that we might feel a difference if we drove balanced on two wheels like Joey Chitwood, but it doesn't have nearly as much squish as my ZX2 rack bushings. Or, the rack bushings in my old Fox Mustang GT Those really needed that upgrade on day one.
 
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scotman

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Thread Starter #13
I ordered up those rack bushings from Alex last Friday. So, we will see what they are like! I will make a separate thread for that one.
I have received both sets of rack bushings. I will make separate threads for each at a later date.
 

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#14
Thanks Scott.

Did you get the solid or the delrin type?
 
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scotman

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Thread Starter #15
Both! I am using the Goldilocks method. Because i simply don't know which of them , if either, would be both an improvement and tolerable.
 
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#16
From experience, I've noticed going with stiffer or no bushings just makes other things down the line break faster. It would have to be quite the improvement for me to switch.
 
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Thread Starter #17
From experience, I've noticed going with stiffer or no bushings just makes other things down the line break faster. It would have to be quite the improvement for me to switch.
Thats where im at. The Delrin bushings were not unreasonably priced. So, I decided to avoid more waiting in the future and just have Alex whip me out a set of each.
 
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Thread Starter #18
Ok! I have the Powerflex bushings on my bench! Plus i am not working this weekend. So i will do an install of the two remaining types of control arm bushings. 20201001_130658.jpg
 
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scotman

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Thread Starter #20
The large inboard bushing with caster adjustment is first! I dont have a properly sized and clearanced drift tool to press this huge bushing out of the arm. So i took a drill and hogged out the rubber part around the spacer. Then i carefully used an air chisel to break the shell of the old bushing enough to dislodge it from the control arm. I hate this method! Drilling the rubber is a mess. I'm trying to do these installs with tools that are either commonly had or cheaply bought. But i will only use the pro equipment if it's really necessary.
Pic 1 is the hogging out of the rubber part. Don't wear clothes you care about! The rubber is sticky and leaves black spots on you and your clothes.
Pic 2 is of the shell of the bushing just knocked out of the arm. I couldn't get the air chisel shot to load, yet. I slightly dinged the top edge of the arm where the bushing comes through. So, in pic 3 i had to carefully clean up those nicks with a die grinder. A curved face metal file would also work perfectly on this.
The 4th pic is a comparison of the old shell and new bushing. This bushing must be located or clocked in a very specific direction in relation to the ball joint on the other end. Powerflex provided a diagram in pic 5.
I am working on loading images. It's going verrrrrry slooooowly.. Might have to dump smartphone and go to digital camera and then laptop.

20201006_172834.jpg 20201006_173535.jpg
 

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