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KYB Excel G front strut and rear shock assembly…

scotman

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#1
1DEF79EA-765C-425A-B71E-2B692C62FFC0.jpeg Tools required to assemble The front struts.
6mm high quality Allen wrench.
19mm 1/2 inch drive, deep socket.
1 pair of medium size curved jaw locking pliers to hold the socket while loosening and tightening the 19mm socket on the struts top nut.
One pair of locking needle nose pliers to hold the end of the Allen wrench.
One 1/2 in drive socket that works on your particular spring compressor set.
Non slip work gloves and safety glasses. Because there is considerable energy in even a partially compressed spring.
 
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scotman

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Thread Starter #4
A quick measurement of the strut piston diameter before I put the boot and bump stop on and position the spring onto the perch,
FADD4187-DD3F-4CC3-BF21-D8E5FC202772.jpeg DA50BB1D-EA64-4FCC-9EF8-E3C07234115D.jpeg AF597C2B-93F4-4E5A-A68C-635D867C342B.jpeg
 
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scotman

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Thread Starter #5
Now I position the spring and compress the spring down enough to get the thrust bearing and top hat into place.
I didn’t use any power tools or pneumatic impact wrench to assemble the struts. It’s not required and didn’t make the work substantially more difficult. The average person with average tools (the only exception being the external spring compressor, which can be easily and cheaply rented. Is the only special tool needed) could complete the process of strut and shock assembly in a few hours.
2F6C7A78-A057-44AB-A678-3DD1EE2F06A2.jpeg 4CAFB099-0BB1-41DA-B7AD-718EEA179CE3.jpeg
 
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Handy Andy

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#7
Did your OEM Struts come with what I'd call, "Dead weight" - a simple box of lead shot/sand weight to help dampen vibration the strut may generate from the bouncing and judder (or jittering) of the strut. It may affect handling - it simply provides a dead weight to help smooth the jump in the steering wheel when the road is rough, and without it - the strut cannot dampen the sometimes-painful numbing some may feel when the road surface shakes the wheel.

At least, not without some form of weight to change the higher frequency vibration harmonic to dampen it into a lower resonance or remove it using this weight?

1668990466835.png
Object #4 in illustration
Damper - Ford (C1BZ-3C157-A)
1668990945928.png
The reason why this comes up, is on my SE model the strut doesn't have that extra ear like you have on yours where this weight mounts opposite-ear of the Link that heads off to the Sway bar.

So, knowing ST's have little "tweaks" the rest of us don't have, does your ST have anything like this and have you tried to use struts with and without this weight attached?
 
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Thread Starter #8
The rear shocks are very simple to assemble for installation.
The piston shield kit #SB125 is a 2 piece item that is pressed together with a twist once you get a portion of the bumper pushed into the notch provided with a screwdriver. C1E9BD5A-E36B-4B43-AE01-6068F581C223.jpeg 12171D7B-90D0-4400-8DBB-8CB396EC6E46.jpeg C4952823-F78C-4AB9-AD8A-8C729158564E.jpeg
 
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scotman

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Thread Starter #9
I didn’t reuse the original upper shock mount nut. I will see if the ones provided by KYB will work out. There has been some issues with the larger replacement nuts interfering with bolting in the shock absorber assembly or causing noise by making contact with the housing. We cannot get a easy look at the mount once it is bolted into the body tub. 34F0540D-F8F9-4C76-B715-2D9049E92BAD.jpeg E607C8F9-027C-4144-B8B4-6422F6CB6E51.jpeg
 
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scotman

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Thread Starter #10
Did your OEM Struts come with what I'd call, "Dead weight" - a simple box of lead shot/sand weight to help dampen vibration the strut may generate from the bouncing and judder (or jittering) of the strut. It may affect handling - it simply provides a dead weight to help smooth the jump in the steering wheel when the road is rough, and without it - the strut cannot dampen the sometimes-painful numbing some may feel when the road surface shakes the wheel.

At least, not without some form of weight to change the higher frequency vibration harmonic to dampen it into a lower resonance or remove it using this weight?

View attachment 7279
Object #4 in illustration
Damper - Ford (C1BZ-3C157-A)
View attachment 7280
The reason why this comes up, is on my SE model the strut doesn't have that extra ear like you have on yours where this weight mounts opposite-ear of the Link that heads off to the Sway bar.

So, knowing ST's have little "tweaks" the rest of us don't have, does your ST have anything like this and have you tried to use struts with and without this weight attached?
My 16 ST didn’t have the harmonic dampers, why? I have no idea. My guess is that high option cars got the dampers in the case of the ST. I ordered my ST with just the Recaro seat option.
I noticed the added mounting provision as well. That bracket was a big deal when SCCA solo drivers wanted to use Koni Sport dampers in stock class auto cross competition. The club has a rule set that requires all of the original parts to be in place for that damper to be allowed.
The basic Fiesta was not specified to have that. So, Koni released the ST version of the yellow damper. The three stock Fiesta ST I have driven all had the added damper. I couldn’t detect any difference in ride or handling.
 
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Handy Andy

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#11
This is some kewl stuff to know [wrenchin].[clap][cool]

Wish you the best - and hopefully the roads you ride on, you will enjoy the difference this install makes.
[cheerleader][raceflag]
 
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scotman

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Thread Starter #12
I have to add up the invoices. But, I believe that these Excel G struts and shocks are well below my earlier cost estimate of $360.00. I didn’t get any coupons or rebates. I will have the exact costs posted later Monday.
I have had the rear dampers waiting on the shelf for several years! I am going to put them on my blue 2011 because I have it insured and plated. But the original plan was for the KYB product to be on the project Fiesta. But the timing of everything has been a huge nightmare.
 
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scotman

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Thread Starter #13
I am interested to see what Lions tooth thinks about these on the European/ FRP spring set!
I hope that he takes the opportunity to rotate his tires and set the pressures before he goes for the first drive. High mileage dampers can do odd things to tires.
 

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#16
Take your time - we ain't going anywhere.

Glad to know you thought of us to keep in touch - we wish you the best for thanksgiving you have memories and experiences
  • - and for you to remember to post here, lets us know what we all are truly thankful for.

Each other.

We'll leave the Light on for you.

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Keep in touch.
This place isn't the same without you.​
 
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scotman

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Thread Starter #17
Torque values for the front strut to knuckle is first tighten to 60 ftlbs or 82 nm. Second stage tighten to 65 ftlbs or 90 nm.

Strut mount top hat to strut piston is 35 ftlbs or 48 nm.

Strut mount top hat to body structure is 35 ftlbs or 48 nm.

Rear shock absorber lower mount to axle beam bracket is 85 ftlbs or 115 nm.

Aluminum upper shock bracket to shock absorber piston is 35 ftlbs or 48 nm.

Shock absorber mount to body structure 18 ftlbs or 25 nm. Be careful when threading the two attaching bolts through the upper shock bracket. Unless you remove the fender inner apron, you will be working blind and upside down. Just an advance notice!
 
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