performance intake manifold ?

[Mercurios2011]

Hello there new to the forum from the sunshine state Florida and owner of a 2011 Ford Fiesta SE
While the car may have a small aftermarket support here in the US I been able to find lots of information from over seas and South America as well.
From PCM tuning to dress up and basic performance mods that fit like a glove. However there is 2 things i been on the look out lately and have not had much luck with .
N1. do they make a performance intake manifold for these cars ?
N2. Performance cold air intake (closed box), while I did had a Spectre CAI , I honestly did not like it ,sucks more hot air than cold. Only reason I don't go down
the bumper is because I live on dirt roads.

Looking for suggestions thanks in advance

 

[scotman]

There are a few smooth intake tube kits for the basic 1.6 Fiesta. And also there’s the drop in low restriction filter from K&N.
Personally, I can say that I think the K&N filter and a eurathane lower transmission mount would have more noticeable effect than the smooth intake on general drivability.
Getting rid of excess weight is the most directly beneficial thing that you can do.
Using premium fuel will get you improved fuel economy but the extra cost won’t cover the improvement.
High quality full synthetic oil and a quality oil filter is a definite improvement from semi synthetic oil.
Last but not least, inspect the coolant reservoir! If the plastic is discolored and cloudy get rid of it asap. When it fails you will lose all of the coolant within two minutes. Engine failure is the next thing to happen.

 

[Mercurios2011]

Hey there ,right now the car has a panel k&N and it's probably what I will stick with,is more for looks I would like a close box CAI,just looks cool imo
Got me lost on the transmission mount tho 🤔

 

[scotman]

You are eight tenths of the way there. I have eurathane lower mounts on both my Fiesta’s with manual transmissions and recently installed an AWR lower mount on a Powershift 2011 Hatchback I’m working on. It really takes a lot of the slop out of the shift mechanism on M/T and makes the engagement firmer and tighter on the Powershift transaxle.
Every Fiesta should get that improvement.

 

[econoboxrocks]

Hey there ,right now the car has a panel k&N and it's probably what I will stick with,is more for looks I would like a close box CAI,just looks cool imo
Got me lost on the transmission mount tho 🤔

Here ya go: https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/rear-motor-mount-for-dct.7718/page-2

 

[econoboxrocks]

Here's the coolest CAI for the 1.6. https://afepower.com/afe-power-56-70048r-takeda-momentum-cold-air-intake-system-w-pro-5r-filter
People like it. https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/afe.8865/#post-24342
It's on sale, so act fast!

 

[Mercurios2011]

Thanks! ,while it says 14 and up and I'm sure it fits the same,(like race headers from a 12 )is hard to tell if it has slot for the MAF tho , definitely worth looking into it

 

[econoboxrocks]

Thanks! ,while it says 14 and up and I'm sure it fits the same,(like race headers from a 12 )is hard to tell if it has slot for the MAF tho , definitely worth looking into it

It should be the same. As long as it's the 1.6, the intake should be identical.

I just now realized you have a 5 speed. You'll want the RMM (rear motor mount) that's sold for the ST. The one I linked is for the DCT auto.
I have the mountune, which I rate 5 stars. There are other brands, though. I think the Black Friday sale is over, but they have seasonal sales. https://www.mountuneusa.com/Roll-Restrictor-Fiesta-St-2013-2019-p/2364-rr-aa.htm

Whoosh makes one, too. https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopif...014-2019-fiesta-st-rear-motor-mount-pre-order

People don't say it enough: That piece will make shifting so easy, you'll go faster whenever you want to.

 

[Mercurios2011]

I'm slowly modifying this car ,as I have never been able to modify anything persey ,honestly I never even thought of anything for transmission, the day the clutch needs service I may go with bronze/ceramic particles and a good plate ,nothing too crazy .This vehicle is very well maintained, only Ford techs usually work on it when I can't for whatever reason, so adding bolts ons really help the vehicle over all performance. I will definitely look into that also,thanks!

 

[Mercurios2011]

Here's the coolest CAI for the 1.6. https://afepower.com/afe-power-56-70048r-takeda-momentum-cold-air-intake-system-w-pro-5r-filter
People like it. https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/afe.8865/#post-24342
It's on sale, so act fast!

I finally bought that intake and is not campatible with 2011, everything mounts the same , But it does not have a slot for the MAF , Re boxed and waiting on customer service approval, thanks anyway

 

[scotman]

FS Werks still offers an intake for the basic Fiesta.
I think that the average HP improvement of the 10 or so different brands and types of intake versions that have been offered for the Fiesta since it was introduced to America is less than 7 to 10 Horsepower.
The main noticeable change is in the induction noise.
Some intakes were a repackaged version of another brand. For example AEM and DC intake manifolds.
Other intakes available for Fiesta were,
K&N 570i
Steeda
Injen
Boesch
R2C
FSWerks
I know that FS Werks and R2C are still available.

 

[scotman]

The rear mount for the transmission is a big improvement on all Fiesta’s. I did that upgrade to both of my Fiesta’s.
I would seriously consider getting a set of 8mm plug wires. The FS Werks wireset claims only 250 ohms of resistance per foot versus the 2,000 ohms resistance per foot of the OE wires.
I am not very impressed with “open element” type intake systems. I don’t believe that it takes much more effort or materials to have the filter enclosed and the induction tube pull cool air from behind the bumper cover and in the space available in front of the left front wheel splash shield.
It would be interesting to do a couple of dynamometer runs with everything else being prepared to a known and recorded condition with only the intake system being changed in between the two runs. That might be an enlightening experience.

 

[Mercurios2011]

Hey man
I absolutely agree on that part, I just ordered a Weapon R that will set the filter bellow the battery away from majority the heat ,and still have the option of extending a ram air hose duct further down to Maxime air density , right now I re installed my cheap Spectre 9054 system (similar to r2c) that I bough 2 years ago but the car didn't had a base map then , only difference I see now is after 4k it does breathe better and still get 34/41 MPG @ 80mph on a 21 mile trip including going thru town ,after all they only claim a very realistic 5hp increase wahoo!!
With that bein said my AFR needs to be re adjusted as everywhere I look says 12.8 to 13.0 is the best AFR for maximum power on an N/A engine . The car runs 13.5 , I just need to get rid of that 5 lol
Honestly never thought about the wires , little things like that I normally stick to OEM but thanks for the suggestion ,will look into it, I'm just experimenting with bolt ons (intakes)and the next one would be to
take the snorkel out the stock box an turn it 180 degress to see how it feels , ill take my pick from comparison and then get the car dyno
I keep forgetting to upgrade that rear mount ..
Ultimately i would like to build a hybrid Intake , using the heat shield from spectre, the intake from the weapon R and a ram air hose , be a good learning experience

 

[scotman]

I think that we might see some benefit to wrapping the intake tube in some kind of heat barrier/ reflective wrap. It might look kinda unusual but it should prevent the the intake tube from transferring much heat to the incoming air.
I don’t understand what you mean about the air/fuel ratio needing “adjustment “. It’s always adjusting itself. If you haven’t replaced the oxygen sensors, they might be reacting somewhat slowly, which is what happens when they are getting old.

 

[Mercurios2011]

I think that we might see some benefit to wrapping the intake tube in some kind of heat barrier/ reflective wrap. It might look kinda unusual but it should prevent the the intake tube from transferring much heat to the incoming air.
I don’t understand what you mean about the air/fuel ratio needing “adjustment “. It’s always adjusting itself. If you haven’t replaced the oxygen sensors, they might be reacting somewhat slowly, which is what happens when they are getting

Basically getting the vehicle dyno tuned
This is another article i found :

For N/A Applications
- For cruise and idle situations a value of 14.7-15.0 (stoic) will be ideal. This will allow the vehicle to be emissions friendly and fuel-efficient.

- When tuning for max power, an a/f ratio of 12.6-12.8 should be used. Note, this value will be slightly different for each application. Certain motors like to run slightly leaner, while others like a richer mixture to make power. Without the use of a dynamiter (dyno) finding this ideal value will be hard. But the value of 12.6-12.8 will give you a great place to start.

- I have known some tuners to tune highway cruising values to as high as 15.5 A/F value’s for good gas mileage. While I believe this is fine for most cars, it can be detrimental to others, and can cause overheating or warping of certain engine components because of the increased combustion temperatures.

While I understand it in my head sometimes is hard to explain 😅

 

[scotman]

A “lean” condition is not a good thing. The Chrysler lean burn engine control system in the mid 1970’s is a prime example of taking a shortcut to fuel efficiency and willingly sacrificing engine durability to get it.
So you are going to install a wide band oxygen sensor? It will be intriguing to see how the engine controls react to something like that. The Fiesta is highly optimized for good fuel economy across the widest variety of conditions.

 

[Mercurios2011]

Agreed ,and absolutely if i can find one for this application lol
i will check Lc2 WBo2S first ,as they are very popular in the tuning world at least with Hondas/Acuras, the o2s i have are but 2 years old (NTKs) and the more i read the more i understand, OEM o2s being a "narrow band" will only read so much even with a pcm tune , so a reading 13/5 at full throttle is accurate for my current setup it seems.
With that lil bit of information and your suggestions( wires on the way)
It should be possible to really tune the afr for maximum power or so I hope 🤞, then worry about
Better clutch kit and flywheel with the rear mount 😆