Electrical Mirror fiesta 2013 Fuse Location

[dali22]

Hello Everyone

Yesterday i was trying to adjust the exterior Mirrors but they didn't move at all in any of the direction, can anyone guide me where to find their fuses so i can check if they are blown
I’ve tried looking through the manual for the car but can’t find a relay or fuse that relates to Electric mirrors . i have this kind of fuse boxes the car is a Titanium fiesta 2013

Exterior fuse Box



Passenger fuse Box


thank you

 

[Handy Andy]

Can you get a better photo of the passenger Fuse box?

By pattern alone - it's kinda hard to see where that fuse box is mounted. It doesn't look "installed" or natural setting.

In the Fiesta there are two - as you know, but the outline of the main Engine bay one is correct, but the passenger one looks to be more from a a Mazda or Ka - totally different - they use RED spacer block while Ford usually uses White Grey or in your instance - black - which in your system, looks like it's been worked on before.

From looking around the 2013 Engine Bay Fuse box looks like this outline - and the backside of the COVER has the fuse numbering.

In the Passenger compartment - the manual claims there is a cover and there are no "bolts" that mount it - the block itself uses clips. Do you have the correct box picture downloaded?



If this helps - your PASSENGER Fuse Block for Power Mirror is F2

 

[dali22]

Thank you so much Andy, this is the one installed on the car,

 

[Handy Andy]

Thank you...
As I went over your photo - you DO have a numbering scheme on the block, but I cannot verify the Fuse location except for by the RATING it has and the number corresponding to it on the Fuse Block.

They are tiny - but are on the black plastic inbetween the Red insulator insert.

Your fuse block for the PASSENGER side of this - is arranged in an array of 6 Row to 8 Column width - with 6 x 8 starting origin at location 1 near the bottom, LEFT corner as 0, 0 on the grid array with the main current fuses inconsequential located below them.



I hope this is all you may need to get you going again...

 

[Handy Andy]

To help solve this..

IF replacing the fuse and it doesn't work, recheck that fuse - see if it blew again.

Then you know you may have a faulty mirror motor - jammed or the wires going to it's gimbal to rotate it up and down may have gotten pinched or even cut so the Fuse simply reflects the "dead mans switch" condition.

 

[dali22]

Thank you Andy, I've Changed The 10A fuse Swapped some others around on the fuse box the issue remain the same it might be a faulty mirror control switch i'll try to buy another one and test, the one i have is attached the windows buttons works fine

 

[Handy Andy]

Ok, just so you know, the NUMBERING of the Fuses varies thru the years, so if they put in a different Fuseblock than that which was what they put as a graphic outline in the OEM owners manual - there is an issue here.

The subsequent Fuses assignment (F numbering) shows F16 as a 5 amp (2013 +) while the one for the year you have - is 10 A but called F2 for your vehicle (per your country also is affecting this) - now in F16 on your callout numbering in that Fuse block, the spot is empty - and no copper tabs in which to plug a fuse in. - and you don't have any fuses less than 7.5A rating.

This may be one of those where you have to seek out the fuse and check each one for Good/Not Good Blown condition and also remember the location of it for future reference..

Much like what the new homeowner has to do when it comes to finding which circuit breaker works which circuit in the house wiring and label it for future reference.

​

 

[dali22]

Thank you Andy Will do

 

[dali22]

Hey Guys i was able to fix the mirror if this would help anyone in the future
i've played a lot with the values on Forscan and i think i've changed the Power/heated mirrors to not configured and thats what caused the issue reverting back to AS build format fixed it

 

[Handy Andy]

Good to know - and a sigh of relief knowing you didn't have a Physical mirror failure from - say, a cyclist whacking it when they got too close - breaking or damaging the wiring in the mirror preventing it from moving.

When you reverted back to AS built - where the VIN takes over the settings - to see all those changes - my goodness! Who had the car, or kids that plugged in something - and made all those changes? Wow - good to know you have the car working again.

Even the smaller battery - a T4 is similar to what a Honda or Hyundai might use for a basic car - so someone was having fun with your vehicle at your expense.

The VIN code is a pretty complex string of numbers that are ASCII - but when converted using a formula from FORD to Hex or even Binary, the Ones and Zeros they form in the string - sets up the vehicle from the type of motor it has all the way down to the How to Flash and rate of Flash for the turn signals let alone the Power Mirror to exist or not - all thru the Modules - starting with the PCM, then BCM even the Pods (Instrument Cluster) and others SYNC, APIM - even GPS.- Rain Sensor modules that control wipers and even DRLS.