Electrical Power Loss

[ThatFordGuy]

Just two days ago I was driving when my electronics started to act strange while driving, but I didn't think much of it. Went to my bank, then I came back to my car (150k miles) to find the remote fob not working to unlock the car. Assumed the fob battery had died, so I opened it manually with the key. Got in the car, and realized there was absolutely no electrical power, completely dead, no dashboard/interior lights, and turning the key in the ignition did nothing.
I assumed the battery had randomly died. Checked under the hood for loose connections, etc. All seemed fine. I was about to attempt to jump-start or call a tow truck, then suddenly all power came back and I was able to start the car. I assumed it was some electrical glitch, I scanned my vehicle with my OBDII port. All seemed fine. The battery was charged, and the alternator is charging the battery. The battery is only two years old. I got some odd codes off my scan. No dash lights but the codes were C0051 - ABS, U0131 - ABS, and U3003 - ABS. Went to Autozone to have them test my battery in case my scanner wasn't reading something properly, and I cleared the codes. However, codes are always present. The scanner says that if dash lights are off these are safe to ignore. I am a little confused. The battery tested fine again. No dash lights.

Outside AutoZone the same problem persisted, the dash flickered and then lost all electrical power. After a minute or two all power came back and the car started and drove normally. Brought the car home. I pulled three of the ground wires and sanded where they sit due to FORD painting the ground contact areas. Also cleaned up battery terminals and posts. Have not driven the car yet.

Has anybody had this issue in the past? I will be checking my fuses next.

In any case, it probably needs a trip to FORD but I thought I'd ask here if anyone has any idea what the problem might be and if there is a simple fix that could be tried. In the meantime, I assume I am ok to drive the car unless the problem happens again after my "fixes". I'm worried now that the electrics could go dead while driving which I don't think would be a pleasant situation to be in!

Thank you in advance for your help.

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

You have covered the areas that most would suggest. I would report back if you have further issues.

 

[Handy Andy]

Although rare, when you check the battery again, I had a 2-year old AC Delco battery do this to me on one of my Trackers.

The vehicle just "died" - hot summer day, couldn't start it thru the key, but fortunately it was a manual so I was able to "push start it".

Found that some of the cells in the "Maintenance Free" (Ha!) battery had boiled - during that day. The battery cover was wet like it had leaked - so when I got home tried filling it up with water but too much of the acid in the cells that got dry, was lost. So replaced the battery with one from AutoZone and that one lasted the life of the vehicle (about 4 years after that)

So to me, this may be a variety of fails, heat, boiling, loose hardware (not just at the battery Solenoids to the starter too) poor terminals (as a function of the battery itself - you don't and can't really verify the integrity of the connections inside the battery)

But like you did with sanding - if you have corroded work, then you have borrowed time until it will leave you stranded again.

Sometimes heat just kills the battery from the inside out - the electrolyte itself gets aggressive when they temperature rises - by then, the specific gravity of that acid can do some serious damages inside the cells.

On top of that, the acid left in the open (dried trails of drip) then combines with the heat and ANY moisture - even from a car wash, that dews up - accelerating the reduction.

Just to add, the main high current block (that Red Cap that covers the post and the terminals) is in several pieces, any of these can come loose or if loose - then water can seep in and corrode it to a point that although it looks and feels tight - the output connections are broken - have to loosen the bolts and retighten to re-establish or even inspect the connection.



IF this condition is really bad, then you might want to look into stopping by the dealership, or even an Autozone and pick up the Heat Shrink tubing - that comes with a Hot melt adhesive inside it (Might have For Marine Use designation)- so that once you fix the bad connectors - solder them, then add hot melt heat shrink tubing to seal that connection then bolt the eyelet.

If you need an example, you're battery Ground Cable has it - uses it, embedded in it so has temps rise, the "glue" re-melts and seals - but it is not in all your wiring or connectors.



It's also in their High-amperage cable to the Starter and Alternator branch of that terminal BUSS Block.

Just that this is about preserving, you do have the need to use something to protect the connection - the best way I know of is to use what Ford will do in their own