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2012 se clutch issues

DoubleD

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#1
Hi, I drive a manual and the clutch started slipping really bad a few days ago out of nowhere. No chattering or weird sounds. Just lost power and high rpm's if I press the gas too hard. Without looking at my car yet and after spending a day waiting for a parts store to call him, a mechanic quoted me $1500 and said that includes the flywheel. My mechanic said he doesn't do fwd clutch's so he recommended this guy. I don't know much about the car mechanically and I'm waiting to get my car into another garage to get looked at and get an opinion.
I'd like to know if that sounds reasonable if the clutch is bad and I'd like to continue driving it for another 100k. Thanks in advance
 
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DoubleD

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Thread Starter #2
I forgot to mention that I had a clutch replaced in a 2006 mustang around 110k. I don't believe I had the flywheel replaced and it cost me around $600.
 

econoboxrocks

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#3
¡Bienvenido a la fiesta!
If your clutch started slipping quickly, I would guess that it's your linkage.
The clutch may be worn out, too, and the linkage is fine. You need a good mechanic.
The flywheel is a part of the engine, and doesn't affect the clutch.
The mechanic may have been talking about the clutch, and it didn't translate to English.
 

Handy Andy

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#4
Since your Fiesta is a 2012, have you checked your Brake Fluid level recently?

1646793016992.png

Reason why I ask is the age of the fluid - it's going on 10 years.

Have the brakes been maintained?

The Fluid reservoir shown above is from my Fiesta - if your fluid level is low - or has gone below a set level then recently refilled, air could have been sucked into the lines - but not for the brakes, but the Clutch. They both share the same reservoir.

Having a low fluid or old - low fluid level - is asking for troubles you don't want.
 
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DoubleD

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Thread Starter #5
Wow quick replies thanks
First, I thought the flywheel and clutch were connected until you press the clutch pedal? I'll look into checking the linkage while I wait to get my car checked.
Second, I checked the brake/clutch fluid reservoir and it was filled but with old fluid. I should go about changing that ASAP then.. I'm not sure about the history as I've only put about 2k on it. I put a new timing belt, serpentine, water pump, and coolant reservoir and it may receive a new clutch..
I'm in the US BTW
 

LionsTooth

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#6
Yes...the flywheel is the pressure connection to the engine from the engaged clutch. Relacing the flywheel seems like a stretch. Unless it's really scored or warped, which your symptom don't point to, it seems like a stretch to replace the flywheel. Bleed/replace the clutch fluid out and go from there. Simple stuff first. Next is linkage. Remember that the clutch always wants to be engaged. So when you press the pedal, it is disengaged (no longer connecting motor power to the drivetrain). So, if you are getting slippage, you are fully not engaged (a clutche's happy place)...so it could be the friction surfaces are worn or the linkage is attempting to disengage the clutch slightly from misalignment. The fluid could be an issue or not, but it is a good place to start.
 
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DoubleD

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Thread Starter #7
Thank you so much. I'm looking into bleeding my lines rn, should be the same as just bleeding my brake lines?
Then I'll continue to the linkage, having a hard time finding what I should be looking for though.
 

LionsTooth

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#8
Same as brake bleeding but don't let that small reservoir get so low so that it is sucking air...keep it full.
 
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DoubleD

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Thread Starter #9
Gotcha my man! Thanks again. I'll report back.
 

Handy Andy

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#10
Hmmm...Where to begin?

The "clutch" is really two assemblies - A pressure plate that bolts to the FLYWHEEL of the engine, and the Clutch Pack - that rolls along in the splines that go to the TRANSMISSION.

1646879609080.png

1646880367728.png

How it's put together - the Clutch pack uses the Throw-out bearing which is mounted to the transmission housing thru the use of a fulcrum - a lever so to speak - that the Clutch pedal often called "Master" pushes fluid into a cylinder the "Slave" - at the Transmission housing where all this is housed. This slave then moves a lever or piston in the throw-out bearing making it apply pressure against a set of fingers. The bearing presses against the fingers of the pressure plate which then transfer this motion (fulcrum) to the clutch pack and the pads then get pushed away internally from the pressure plate itself.

Please understand that the Pressure Plate - is MOUNTED to the Engines Flywheel, and the Clutch pack, sits inside the pressure plate and rotates with the transmission. The Throw-out bearing rests on the fingers of the pressure plate and has a hole that allows the transmission side to rotate with the Clutch Pack. So, when the throw-out bearing presses on the fingers - the pack gets pushed away - the springs in the pack then force the pads back onto the pressure plate when the throw-out bearing pressure is released - Clutch pedal out.

This action lets the engine turn while the transmission can then be released or freed up to select another gear or place the transmission in a freewheeling state of Neutral (ride the clutch moments) .

So, these two parts - are how the Engine can transfer power to the Transmission - these two pieces are attached to two different shafts. allowing one to rotate and the other also to rotate or even become stationary (transmission side) using a third part as a lever or fulcrum to push against spring tension - and the springs help hold the clutch pack onto the pressure plate.
1646878511451.png
The 3rd piece is what brought you here...

1646880664982.png
What connects the two to make the system work, is the THROWOUT BEARING which uses the Brakes Reservoir to hold fluid so the Clutch's "Master and Slave" of two pistons and a tube - can make or force the Throw-out bearing - to put pressure in the tiny fingers the Pressure plate has, and transfers that motion to the hub of the Clutch pack - that has a set of literally "brake" pads on a spring hinge that when the throw-out bearing presses against the fingers of the pressure plate - makes the Clutch pack and it's springs - bow-out inside a floating free spinning space of air between the pressure plate and flywheel - pushing out and removing the "pads" from the Pressure plate.- letting the two halves of the system to rotate at their own speed - letting you shift the transmission or allow the engine to apply power in a variable fashion to the transmission.

Since the Clutch Pack uses a fibrous softer material - the clutch pack can work as a means to apply friction across the pressure plate surface in a flexible force driven way - using the throw-out bearing - to act as a means to pull the pack away from the plate, and also let it meet with the plate but apply force for friction gradually - letting one turn faster than the other and yet apply power.

The Throw-out bearing may be the culprit, requiring a repair, or the Master/Slave unit is not allowing the engaging and disengaging of the Throw-out bearing to work correctly. Thats why I mentioned bleeding the system - unless you really ride the clutch - the vehicles mileage usually dictates when the system needs repair or replacement - usually above 50K miles or more and older than 5 years - then you need to worry.

The springs in the system - by default - are engaging the pressure plate which means the clutch pack and plate are one. When the system begins to slip - this usually means the clutch pack pads are worn down and cannot apply enough force as friction to keep the housing rotating as one - as the entire system - needs to be replaced as one unit.

If you're a mechanic, then I apologize for the redundancy - but I feel it is necessary to post this so others can grasp the way a clutch works so they can extend the life and enjoyment of manual transmissions with a better understanding.
 
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DoubleD

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Thread Starter #11
You guys are amazing.
Thanks for the work put in explaining this to me!
Have an appointment with a mechanic I trust soon, but going about figuring out how to bleed my brakes is the first step. Thanks again
 
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DoubleD

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Thread Starter #12
Ok so after 20 days in the shop my clutch and all the stuff like the master cylinder have been changed
Costed me $1386! Wow..
Very touchy now, but kind of smoothed out after 10 miles. Barely had to touch the clutch now it feels normal again.
Kinda upset I payed that much without a new flywheel, they just had it machined. Should've went with the guy who quoted me 1500, might as well have
Next time, I think I'll be able to handle most fixes on this car. I watched so many videos on changing the clutch I feel I could have done it in a weekend for about 1/3 that price..
 


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