Driver Electric Window and Mirrors not working - Any advice?

[Newbie2411]

Hi,
Car not been used for about 4 weeks, just tried the windows and the drivers side wont open (passenger side is fine), further checking the electric mirrors also not working?
Searched a couple of posts here but cants seem to see a positive solution (at least in the posts anyway), does anyone have a fix for this type of issue?

 

[Handy Andy]

It could be from some simple dust and dirt corrosion on the switches, since you say the passenger side is fine.

So look on the door rest, and see about operating the "window lock" function a few times - if the window is not stuck in it's sill and frame jamb - it may just need to have the Window Lock function used a few times to re-seat the contacts.

It is an older unit so if you have rust or water leaking in - it may mean time for a new switch assembly.

 

[Max Casey]

It could be from some simple dust and dirt corrosion on the switches, since you say the passenger side is fine.

So look on the door rest, and see about operating the "window lock" function a few times - if the window is not stuck in it's sill and frame jamb - it may just need to have the Window Lock function used a few times to re-seat the contacts.

It is an older unit so if you have rust or water leaking in - it may mean time for a new switch assembly.

Hello, I have this exact same issue, the drivers window won’t open or close, yet the master switch still opens and closes the passenger window, also the mirror adjuster doesn’t move the mirrors.
I bought a new window switch incase it was just a faulty switch, didn’t solve the issue.
I used a multimeter to test power to the switches plug, I managed to figure out which ones go where (I think) the passenger switch wires give a reading when operated yet the two I believe to be the drivers window wires don’t show any reading.
The motor seems okay as I used two wires on a drill battery onto the terminals for the motor and the window goes up and down.
Could this be a wiring issue within the door jam? Or between the motor and switch?
Please help as my brain is aching trying to figure this out
Thanks

 

[Handy Andy]

There is a "bend" and snorkel grommet that snakes the main wiring harness to and from that main armrest.

Since you confirmed that the window works, the wiring to it may be the problem, as it opened up before the fuse to protect it did. That requires a continuity check - or at least a rigged up jumper system from the drill battery to the two harness pins that operate that motor - if you've done this already, then the switch is the likely culprit as its contacts are supposed to be durable but not designed to last forever and still work - so the switch contacts can pit or dislocate (the AUTO function stop is an example of this) to prevent the contacts from ever making contact again - they simply have sprung out of their seat.

The switch is similar to a 8Pole Double Throw switch with "center off" and you have a "reversing switch" with it which simply changes the polarity of the wires to the motor making it change direction when it's polarity is reversed. ON top of that is that MASTER switch which bypasses all other controlled switches (means it has to loop back to this section so the harness is all this bundles mess from it) The 8-pole refers to the issue of 4 windows and their subsequent reversal loop-back thru the master switch which isolates the polarity of each switch control so the windows work independently up and down but are controlled thru the "Master" back on the drivers side.

That means either try to fix this yourself or a trip to the shop.

This is a similar condition to what Murphy made a law about...

The Most expensive part of a system will blow first, to protect the 2 cent fuse.

 

[Jay71]

Hi there
Sorry about resurrecting an old post, it's just that it's exactly the same problem as mine.

I was just wondering if you had fixed your problems as I have exactly the same issues going on with mine, or has anybody else come up with a solution to this problem?

First I really hope you've sorted your car, and I was hoping for some advice, or the fix that got your issue fixed,

Has anyone else come across this problem? How did you get around it, is this a common problem amongst fiestas?
I would really appreciate any advice or solutions or any tips or tricks or point me in the right direction for some information

Thanks for any information offered
Jay

 

[Handy Andy]

This is the best I can do to help...for USA Models - hope some of this can apply to you - just the Drivers side is on the Right.




The Main Door "Drivers Side" has all the biggie stuff to make the windows operate thru a master - each window is powered thru the master - in parallel. So each window operates independently - but gets power to do that thru the MASTER.

Please note that the Passenger side front window - being powered by the same fuse the Drivers window is (F34 in above diagram), Rear windows are powered by fuse F31.

Mirrors are a different story...


And if you have the "Auto Dimming" mirror option...


In vehicles of those years we're finding the wiring harnesses are breaking down - so continuity checks are going to have to be done to verify the wiring integrity first - then chase down the culprits.

Many of the motors are internally wired to ground to their case on the motor terminals so the reversing is done by a polarity reversals at the motors windings using a diode bridge network internal to the motor - so the case as well as it's terminals will also need a resistance check (not continuity - you're checking windings so it will have resistance and may not trigger "continuity Go/No Go") and fail - so use Ohmic 200 Ohms setting.

So if you can send power thru a wire jumper (Test jig) from the Battery and make the window work up and down - then the issue is either power to the switch (if you can send power to the switch and the switch makes it work - the switch is ok) or the switch itself has failed.

In Fiestas past the 2013 model year (new nose job and grille) they get power thru a relay that is on in ACC and RUN as a security feature.

 

[Jay71]

Hi Andy
Thanks so much for offering your help/advice, I will certainly have a look through what you've said, like you I'm not to sure with the USA vs uk model, but there must be similarities there, you never know i may catch a break.. thanks again, it's really appreciated.
Jay