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Overheating

Jobo

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2014 Ford Fiesta se
#1
Hey folks. I have a 2014 se. I was sitting with it running, no ac on, and it started steaming like it was overheating. I got out and looked and it seemed like it was just water on the ground. So I pooped the hood and the coolant reservoir was full as it should be. I grabbed a napkin and dipped it in the puddle and it wasn’t red like the coolant is. I got in and turned it on and the red temperature check light was on but the temperature bar was in the middle. Went to move and it didn’t want to go and was shaking pretty bad so I stopped and turned it off again. Went to move a little later and the red light was gone but temperature bar was all the way hot. It shook some but I made it about 1/10th if a mile where I could leave it and come back. I’m no mechanic but I can google. I think it may be the water pump or thermostat. Any idea what may be going on? Thanks in advance!

Jordan
 

scotman

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2011 Fiesta SE hbk Blue
#2
Hey folks. I have a 2014 se. I was sitting with it running, no ac on, and it started steaming like it was overheating. I got out and looked and it seemed like it was just water on the ground. So I pooped the hood and the coolant reservoir was full as it should be. I grabbed a napkin and dipped it in the puddle and it wasn’t red like the coolant is. I got in and turned it on and the red temperature check light was on but the temperature bar was in the middle. Went to move and it didn’t want to go and was shaking pretty bad so I stopped and turned it off again. Went to move a little later and the red light was gone but temperature bar was all the way hot. It shook some but I made it about 1/10th if a mile where I could leave it and come back. I’m no mechanic but I can google. I think it may be the water pump or thermostat. Any idea what may be going on? Thanks in advance!

Jordan
. So, you were driving the car in stop and go traffic and the issue became apparent? Or, you were just pulled in and idling from an period of driving at a speed above 45 mph? You are pretty vague about the driving situation just prior to the overheating. How many miles are on the car? Have you had to top up the coolant in the recent past, or had a coolant system maintenance done? Did you notice if the radiator cooling fan was working or not? Is your Fiesta a 1.6 four or a 1.0 three cylinder? It's very difficult to make a reasoned determination without a good level of understanding of the situation that it occurred .
 

Spice61

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Ford Firsta
#3
. So, you were driving the car in stop and go traffic and the issue became apparent? Or, you were just pulled in and idling from an period of driving at a speed above 45 mph? You are pretty vague about the driving situation just prior to the overheating. How many miles are on the car? Have you had to top up the coolant in the recent past, or had a coolant system maintenance done? Did you notice if the radiator cooling fan was working or not? Is your Fiesta a 1.6 four or a 1.0 three cylinder? It's very difficult to make a reasoned determination without a good level of understanding of the situation that it occurred .
Hi all!
I have had that many attempts by mechanics to fix overheating on my fiesta 2014 1.0 eco boost
Mostly overheats while in idle after engine is hot!
Whilst driving with AC on no problem!
1.Have changed Both Thermostats
2.Replaced water pump that had a fin missing
3.Replaced relay switch
4.Had Radiator Flushed
5. Condensor checked
6. Radiator checked no leaks
7.Head gasket most recently replaced and still have like bubbles in the cooling tank even when not overheating in idle?
8. Hoses have been checked?
9. Coolant not leaking
10. Could it just be the coolant cap not holding pressure?
And air getting in when hot?
11.
I have ordered a new cap for coolant as last resort& then I will also try purging air while cool after I get the new cap?
Could the cap be the problem?
 

Handy Andy

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2018 Ford Fiesta SE HB
#4
You have not told us of the condition of the Radiator fan or it's housing!

It being a 2014 - tells me that a problem with the Radiator fan or it's wiring - embedded in the housing - is what is causing more of this - at least you Did Not Tell us you hear the fan clicking on or off - the big clue is the FORCING the fan on because the AC is on, you don't have the overheating condition.

We have to figure out why the Regular fan on and off when the engine needs it, is not happening.

The wiring in the housing might be ok, you can turn on the AC and the engine stays cool, so that means the fan does work, but what about the times you don't need AC - the car would overheat - correct?

Then there are two relays for the FAN - both are in the Engine compartment Fuesbox. One relay runs the AC, the other one runs the cooling Fan - have you had the shop check these relays?

Otherwise, they have to see if the coolant temperature sensor and the coolant "overheat" sensor are working.

Since you have the 1.0L Eco boost, check to see if the front grille has those shutters - they are closed when the engine is cold, but when it warms up, they open - when AC is on, they open.

You may also have a similar setup to one in this thread...
https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/st150-radiator-fan-not-engaging.8907/post-24260

Check your radiator shroud - make sure all it's wires are still good and not corroded off or broken
 
Last edited:

Spice61

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Ford Firsta
#5
The car does not overheat at all if the AC is off!
It only overheats when idling with AC turned on!
AC runs well as me car runs well until I stop for a few minutes at traffic lights !
The car starts overheating?
If I stop & idle & turn the AC off while idle , the car does not overheat!
When I take off I turn the AC back on and no problem!
The fans click on and seem to work!
One anomaly!!!
When I stop the car and turn off the fan runs on for at least 5 minutes!
If you look in the coolant tank it looks like it’s boiling?
But it may be bubbles?
As when the fan stops the tank fluid immediately is quiet 🤫 So maybe not boiling , not sure?
 

Handy Andy

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#6
When it's boiling? Ouch, certainly a sign that the engine is hot.

If your first post - you said you replaced the water pump - it was missing a fin?

As in impeller damage?

Even a bigger OUCH - this is becoming serious!

If one of the pumps impeller fins separated, this can do even more serious damage as in now you have it grinding up and even plugging ports the coolant needs to flow thru,

So the bubbling - seems like it's not holding pressure - this may mean gasket issues too.

Ok, now this condition can occur when a water pump fails - but in the order of what you describe...

If the Radiator was changed BEFORE you discovered the impeller damage, then the replacement radiator may also be plugged to a point that the AC generates enough heat to overheat the motor because the CORE of the replacement radiator is plugged with sediment and impeller debris.

But when the impeller is damaged, no matter what - the engines first overheat from that condition may also be the sure sign the motor is failed - from the impeller damaging the block and the cooling jacket. The engine block - it's cast - so broken pieces and debris can damage the jacket to a point where it only holds coolant, and it can't circulate it effectively.

1664933695759.png

The grinding is a serious issue with any sort of debris or metal shavings - for they can ERODE the system, using the pumps impeller, to ABRADE and wear against the cast metal - reducing its ability to draw coolant, on top of, change in size of the ports it uses - can become enlarged to a point where the pump only swirls water - it can't pump it because the inlet and outlets are eroded to a point where there is no pressure build except for excessively high RPM to centrifuge the coolant into what's left of the system to even press out fluid to get to the radiator.

1664934192210.png

The Fiesta pump is similar but has only 2 ports; an Inlet, to the impeller - then the outlet to the jacket. The jacket is sealed within the cast block but has passages thru it to pass coolant around the cylinders to cool them. The flow is pretty brisk even at idle and most of the heat is pressed back into the motor - but also flows by and around the housing that contains the Thermostat and the Heater Hose OUTLET of hot coolant to the Heater core - the return hose arrives to the engine and is part of the INLET port.

So you have a two-fold failure in progress here from what I read, all the steps you've done aside from the second replacement radiator and a new flush to VERIFY the water pump in there - can pump fluid thru the system. You have to make sure the pump is pushing coolant into and thru the motor, and it is sound enough to continue working - for when you're at idle - the issue of those enlarged ports and debris shows up as bubbling and that means; no coolant - or not enough coolant - is moving thru the system at idle speeds - boiling the coolant because it can't pull enough heat out of the engine to the radiator.

I can only hope I'm not right...
 
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Handy Andy

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#7
To add a little more...

If someone diluted down the coolant - not good - it can boil at a lower temperature, and your cars coolant would boil dry before the overheating condition got to a point to set off sensors to warn you of it getting too hot under there.

1665616664817.png

But I wanted to also ask you if you checked the front inlet grille of the car, when the engines off, does the front have what they would call shutters?
  • - as in these vanes like a venetian blind
  • - would close when the engine is cold or off
  • - as a means to provide efficiency in keeping heat from the motor in there for faster warming up and holding the heat so the engine doesn't have to "idle up" it's mixture as possible to save money in gas used to offset a colder than normal operating temperature motor.

There is supposed to be a thermostat that monitors that and moves an actuator tied to those shutters.
 


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