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Head gasket likely shot, engine replacement tips?

Minnie79

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#1
My friend has a 2013 Fiesta, 1.6 automatic. Pretty sure the head gasket let loose today. No coolant in oil, but the act of cranking the engine blows coolant from the reservoir. And of course it won’t start. It may have been going on longer than this, as one of the lines to the reservoir kept developing leaks and she’s had to keep adding coolant. Thought it was fine a few days ago when I patched the line. New line has already been on order. Another guy looked at it today and said the water pump is seized up. She just had a shop put on a new serpentine belt a week ago, after she said there was a chirping sound. You would think they would have noticed.

Edit: It’s now in my yard so I can work on it whenever. Compression starting from belt side is 120, 94, 58, 118. Head gasket between middle two cylinders.

Anyway, rather than do the water pump and timing set, and find out the head is possibly warped or cracked… I’m thinking it would be better to drop in a good used engine for $350, and change the water pump and timing set while it’s out for good measure. And least get her going in the least amount of downtime.

Is there anything else that is a common problem item, which would be better replaced while the engine is out?

Also, I watched a YouTube video on engine removal, and had a couple questions for anyone who has done it.

1. Does the hood need to come off, or is it just more convenient that way? Looks like a good way to put it through the windshield if I’m not careful.

2. Does the steering knuckle need to be disconnected for the axle support to be removed? Or again, is it just more convenient that way? Looks like a good way to inadvertently overextend the axle.

I’ve done 3 engine swaps, but always with late 80s GM FWD cars. This is my first experience with one of these cars. Engine wise anyway. Last winter I replaced the Fiesta rear wheel bearings and the front balljoints/control arms.
 
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Minnie79

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Thread Starter #2
Engine is out. It’s in the garage, which is normally the home of my show car. Took me 12 hours yesterday, about typical. Hood stayed in place. I removed the passenger axle to keep it from getting overextended or damaged. I just popped out the balljoint since I just did those last winter anyway.

Only thing that broke was the starter solenoid, which would have broken regardless. Trigger wire nut was so tight it took 2 stacked vise grips plus wrench to remove the nut from the terminal. Can’t believe how much starters are for this thing.

In contrary to what the other guy said, there is nothing wrong with the water pump. It must have slowly lost coolant from the broken hose at the overflow tank.

Still wondering if there are any common issues on these engines that would be better fixed while it’s out/apart ? Like for example, the distributor O ring on the GM 60 degree V6. I would definitely do the timing belt and water pump.

Also wondering whether or not to do the head gasket, or just put in a replacement. What’s it commonly like when the head gasket goes on these? Does the head usually weaken or warp or crack? If not, I can save 2-3 hundred dollars if I can just fix this one. It wasn’t seriously overheated.

I did buy a repair manual CD. And have watched a lot of videos. One thing that seems to be a confusing spot, is the torque on the camshaft caps. Lots of people saying the published torque is too much. That’s a pretty critical area for conflicting information.
 

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Handy Andy

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#3
The engine block and the head need to be checked for warpage - else you may not be able to reassemble it right once the new gasket of this original motor has been changed.

1753059276096.png
When you remove the head, you'll see that the cylinders appear to "float" in the block when you look from the top-side down. The block itself is merely a container for the waterjacket the upper cylinders have around them. This is how the motor even works - the fluid carries the heat away while the sleeves transfer heat from their chambers. The Gasket itself is adjunct - which keeps the cylinders from bleeding - blowing into each other - but there are areas of concern where there are gaps in the joiners - the cylinder to cylinder sleeves - that let fluid in to cool that section. If these get caked with debris, the effort to restore it may be pointless for they may have developed minor cracks and will fail soon enough - meaning replacing the gasket is only buying time. As to - how much time? Depends on how much the gap is plugged from debris or caked with sludge from the radiator fluid and oil mix.

1753064778157.png

The Cylinder head receives the fluid and pushes it out the outlets in the back.

So gotta' keep the ports clean so if you decide to change the gasket - make sure those areas are clear of debris and old oil.

Have to add this in, because you also asked about the "Camshaft cap bolts" torque specs, they run about 92 to 95ft/lbs which may seem high, it is supposed to be...

Think of the geometry - the head floats above the block - the cams are integrated (bolted and journaled) into the head.

When the head takes on extra air and charge - the head itself can deform due to the combustion - so the deformation also can affect the journal to bearing clearances - people have had their head caps crack due to the out of round condition that can happen when the cylinder head gasket goes awry as well as lose camshafts due to the head warpage.

This is coming from advice I get when I ask about this kind of motor - although many like it, when it gets abused, they get junky as in - unusable - quickly - especially after racing or short track jaunts - they don't take too well to that abuse and cost too much to fix, it's easier to sell out for scrap by weight and get another rebuild (if they are locally available) else even the rebuild inventories are dwindling on these motors so if you need to make a choice - get a spare and eat the cost up front, the older motor can possibly be rebuilt and resold later - you might be able to break even if the rebuild "takes" to the motor and no issues come up during the rebuild. .
 
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Minnie79

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Thread Starter #4
Thank you for this. I took this one apart. No damage to the gasket itself. But both the block and head face are .005-.006 out of flat. Dished in the middle of course. The manual says .003 max. So that .010-.012 total gap in the area between the two middle cylinders explains the compression test results. The head also lifted right off upon removal of the bolts, it wasn’t stuck down or anything.

These engines just seem so delicate compared to what I’m used to. The almost floating cylinder walls. The “joiners”, which have nearly nonexistent depth on this engine here. So I’m guessing it was faced before, and the gaps were mostly milled off.

She gave me more info on last time it had this problem 5 years ago give or take. Head gasket went, and the mechanic put in a replacement engine. That engine was bad from the start, so he had to get another one. Which is the current one. I could do the same, just go get one locally for $400 from a car hit in the rear, that they claim “runs good”. But for how much longer? And who’s to say it wasn’t having problems before it was hit? And what you’re saying about the hairline cracks that can accumulate with debris and age.

So I found an engine downstate with 15k, for $950. I decided that was the only way to get one that was likely to be decent. I took the afternoon off work and spent 7-8 hours on the road round trip. I had previously called twice to inquire, and to reserve it for the next day. I got there and he said he tore the place apart and can’t find it. He gave me $100 for gas money and the trouble of coming down.

So now I guess my only feasible option is to get one of the local engines and hope for the best. Do like she did last time and see how long it lasts. Will have to give them a few days notice to pull it, and only time I can get there will be a week from tomorrow.

The fact that the car is not rusted out here in the salt belt means a lot. That’s a rare thing and good enough reason to keep a car IMO. All the bolts come out easily. Even the jack points are solid.
 

Handy Andy

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#5
It sad to read this, because mine too, is low in miles but not THAT low [wrenchin][burnout]So I may be facing an inevitable that the heads can deform and the death of the vehicle is not a matter of if, but of when - except if accident intervenes. [???:)]

Keep us posted...thank you...
 
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Thread Starter #6
I got the local engine yesterday. Local is 1.5-2 hours away. Had to get up early on my day off, and was too tired to accomplish anything in the garage, and do it well. Today I put the old engine back together, which was a good training exercise in setting the timing from scratch. Then set it out of the way. Lowered the new one out of the back of the Jeep, ever so carefully, sliding it down some 2x4s. Dollied it in and hoisted it onto the work stand. Got it basically all stripped down same as the old one.

One thing I noticed that isn’t on the old engine, is what looks like a snapped off stainless bolt at the top center of the block, between the two top bell housing bolt holes, with a little sealant. Around it in a circle is stamped “guaranteed, void if removed” or something like that. Maybe this one was a reman at some point? I can get a picture tomorrow.

One issue is the lower outer AC compressor bolt, the junkyard snapped it off. I tried vise grips and pipe wrench, and smacking it with a hammer to hopefully crack the threads, all while under the heat of a propane torch on the surrounding metal. No go. Guess I’m gonna have to weld a nut to it and see if that makes it budge. Seen guys do that in videos but never tried it myself. A job for tomorrow.

Another possible issue is something in the cylinder 1 linkage. Originally when I turned the crank by hand, it was like short bind when cylinder 1 was at TDC. Not like hitting metal, more like pushing against a firm spring. Every turn of the crank. As I pushed through the bind, it would feel like 2 releases, one instantly after the other. It almost felt like a timing belt jumping teeth, so I took the cover off. Everything was functioning fine there. Timing is also correct when checked with the setting tools. I pulled the plugs and checked all cylinders. As I kept working it, it freed up more. Now the bind is nearly gone, there is only a light noise like possible play in the cylinder 1 linkage. Only at TDC, and also at BDC but less. Holding the long socket extension in the spark plug hole against the piston 1 lessens the noise a bit, no change with the other cylinders. I can turn the crank back and forth a tad at TDC and BDC and it makes the noise in both directions. I’m hoping this takes care of itself with more exercise and the oil pressure when running. The engine I put in my 89 Cutlass Cruiser (from same place) had a stuck piston from sitting, but once freed up and with some exercise the car has been running great for the last 6 years. I’ll keep exercising it, and if I have to pull the oil pan to see what’s up, I will.

At this point I should install the starter and rig up some battery cables to compression test it. Just to make sure it’s good that way, before going through the work of putting it in the car. The yard did say 90 day warranty.

All my parts should be arriving this week. New Dayco water pump and timing belt kit, crank pulley bolt, thermostat and gasket, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets. Got a brand new jug of 5w20 from my ex’s Taurus, and the Fiesta takes the same filter as my Geo Tracker, got a few laying around.

Oh and while I’m thinking about it, can I just use the original green coolant in this? Or does it need to be something else? I use the green in all my older cars because it’s the most mild, no acids to eat gaskets, etc.
 
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Handy Andy

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#7
So you know, the oil pump is at the crank, base of Cylinder 1 - make sure they didn't smack the harmonic balancer out of true and it now wobbles. The bottom crank uses a gear with no notch, clutch, dog or stopper - it uses the friction of the gear to crank clearance to friction grab and hold fast. (I hope this is not the double "dink" effect from wobble causing this)

The "green" no, shouldn't has to be Ford Orange or Toyota RED - both will work but are of a different base. If you tried to use green with these - it's base is different and any residue will gel up and ruin the motor as fast as if you didn't use oil
 
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Thread Starter #8
Good thing about the coolant, thanks I didn’t know that.

The crank pulley is on good and solid and square. I got the crank bolt loose but haven’t used the puller to break it free until I’m ready.

So yesterday the owner stopped by after work and we worked on cleaning up the engine, sand, dirt, etc. After it was all clean, I removed the valve cover to make sure all was good there. I cranked it by hand some more, and the noise was now almost nonexistent. Another thing was I got a few puffs of dust out the cyl 1 exhaust port. Hmmm. I wonder if a mud wasp crawled up into the cylinder and built a nest in one corner, and that’s why it initially was binding, until I flattened it. I fashioned a plastic coat hanger into an angled scraper that would reach the piston perimeter. With the cyl 1 exhaust valves open and the shop vac on the exhaust port, I ran the scraper around for awhile, and the piston looked normal through the spark plug hole. I think it’s gonna be alright.

Today after work I tackled the broken stud. Tried 3 times with a welder, just kept breaking more off until it was deep in the hole. So time to drill. Almost to the end the small bit broke in there. So I got as far as I could. Tried a bolt extractor. With a propane torch aimed on one side, heat gun aimed at the other side, tapping on the extractor with a hammer to keep it seated, holding rotational pressure on the extractor with a wrench, all it did was strip my wrench. Got creative and hit the broken bit with various nails to shatter it. Eventually broke off the end of the bolt inside. So drilled the remains to size and tried to tap, but the threads were hopeless. So I did what I’ve done before. Drilled out the threads and tapped it for a steel pipe nipple (1/8 npt in this case), screwed in the nipple and ground it flush, and drilled and tapped that. Will be at least as strong as the original aluminum threads. After messing with it for 4 hours tonight, finally got that part fixed.

Thursday the last of my parts should be here. And I will probably get started Sunday, we are going to a concert Friday/Saturday.

Here’s a pic of that weird plug thing, and another to show the location.
 

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