Has anybody else had the same issue!

[Terri260691]

Hi so over the past couple of months I’ve been experiencing the same issue with my ford fiesta 2016 plate. Mechanics can’t really work out the issue when I’m driving and I slow down my car to come to a stop and go to change back to first gear the car won’t let me feels like car won’t go into first gear and then the clutch goes onto the floor of the car and won’t move like the clutch has broken when it hasn’t and then i have to restart the car a few times to get the clutch to reset and then I can drive the car again. Has anybody had the same issue and if so did they manage to sort the problem and find out what it was. Please any help is appreciated it’s really frustrating it happens every now and again

 

[Handy Andy]

This may be more of a failure in the "Hill-Assist" or ABS system - which has had issues of contamination of brake fluid in the lines from disintegration of seals and a lining integrity (the inner coatings of some brake lines - it is done to reduce rust or as a meant to remove rust and any debris in the line during primary assembly at the factory)

So you know - there are several You-tube videos about ABS system failure, and since the Manual clutch uses the same fluid in (and from) that system - it would be prudent to have the brake and ABS system inspected or at least tested to make sure there are no issues and or recalls with this ABS system for the Clutch and the Brakes use the same fluid and reservoir.

So if you're downshifting to 1st gear, the lockout works but you can't get to 1st gear, so it may also have problems trying to get there because the linkage is also out of adjustment or it's frozen due to lack of lubrication and you may need to take it to the shop to have them open and service or at least oil the shifter linkage - especially if it has not ever been done or if this is the first time you've heard about having to do this.

By your difficulty in shifting this shifter linkage may need a little TLC

 

[Terri260691]

This may be more of a failure in the "Hill-Assist" or ABS system - which has had issues of contamination of brake fluid in the lines from disintegration of seals and a lining integrity (the inner coatings of some brake lines - it is done to reduce rust or as a meant to remove rust and any debris in the line during primary assembly at the factory)

So you know - there are several You-tube videos about ABS system failure, and since the Manual clutch uses the same fluid in (and from) that system - it would be prudent to have the brake and ABS system inspected or at least tested to make sure there are no issues and or recalls with this ABS system for the Clutch and the Brakes use the same fluid and reservoir.

So if you're downshifting to 1st gear, the lockout works but you can't get to 1st gear, so it may also have problems trying to get there because the linkage is also out of adjustment or it's frozen due to lack of lubrication and you may need to take it to the shop to have them open and service or at least oil the shifter linkage - especially if it has not ever been done or if this is the first time you've heard about having to do this.

By your difficulty in shifting this shifter linkage may need a little TLC

Thank you for your reply I will ask them to check all of this for me and will write back if this was sorted. I didn’t know if I needed a new clutch because the clutch just literally sits on the floor and I can’t use it

 

[Handy Andy]

The pumping action from the clutch pedal can force a kink in one of the hoses that feeds to the clutch line, it's hydraulic - so if the clutch goes to the floor too much pressure has been placed in the slave piston and can force it to stick out and push into and bind the clutch to the media until it's restarted to clear it by motion of the engine. It won't retract because of that pressure, so restarting helps to relieve the condition.

Only a guess based upon what has been posted so far. I own a manual so it's been to the shop more than once for problems.

Knowing by what I've seen in their tear apart and tear-down it's more likely that the binding is caused by worn clutch system.

 

[Handy Andy]

I didn’t know if I needed a new clutch because the clutch just literally sits on the floor and I can’t use it

There's a thread about something you may need to check
https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/clutch-pedal-working-intermittently.9649/post-27290

 

[Terri260691]

There's a thread about something you may need to check
https://www.fordfiesta.org/threads/clutch-pedal-working-intermittently.9649/post-27290

thank you that sounds exactly like my car. I will mention this to the mechanic on Tuesday

 

[Handy Andy]

The clutch pedal uses a pin - that it's shaft then goes into that arm of the piston, the hole at the top of that arm is where that pin's shaft goes thru and there is a tiny push nut washer-thingy used as a stay, on the opposite side that the pin-shaft - is what the stay uses - to stay in.

**Whew** - sorry for the redundancy, but since I don't have your car in front of me to help you with this, I can only work with whats available.

You just may need to fix the Pin-to-Clutch-Arm the stay or pin itself may have gotten slack and so the stay-nut being loose, lets the pin move and the arm will shift - so it can "jam" behind the bracket and hold in place.

It may be your problem so it may not need a new plunger - just fix the pin and stay for it...

​

In the Above - the Push Nut is for 2013 and EARLIER models they revised the Pin and Clip used on the ARM for USA models for 2014 and later...looks like this...

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...AND...

They made changes to the mounting - how the MASTER is held fast to the firewall and to the bracket...

​

However, the Clutch slave cylinder - the one that rests in the cavity the Clutch and flywheel are in - it's mounted to center and surround the engines output shaft to input shaft of the transmission. It floats in a concentric ring - that is bolted to the bell housing on the Transmission side. If you look carefully - that slave cylinder has two arms - one for fluid uptake from the master back on the clutch pedal worked by your foot, that pumps the fluid from your foot into that ring-shaped piston.

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The lower arm in the photo with a green arrow is the burp line which; by the way it is mounted, is the highest spot of the master cylinder so it is set up to allow air to be bled out of that piston.

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Although probable, that "sticking" pedal can also be from the tines of the clutch assembly hanging up on the piston so it binds and cannot release the clutch until it's removed by forcing - either by engine restart or by free-play in a worn clutch assembly, shaking it loose.