Funny how this came up - I had done something like this earlier....
That "baffle" (Director?) seems to want to bring more of the dirt in the air to the filter.

It literally routes the air thru the snorkel from outside in the cowl - thru the tube piped into this baffle or director. No swirl or redirect method used except to pipe direct.
I don't mind having a way to route air but this method doesn't give the owner a provision to develop a plenum concept. Dirt, dust sand and grit kicked up from driving brings this right to the filter media - plugging it up faster than letting the dust and grit settle out in the bottom of the airbox.

Arrows in the above show where water spots and salt - debris, collected in the tube. The photo is recent, but the tube was taken out over 6 months ago.
Your photo is comparable in showing similar water spotting and dirt collection in the tube.
IN the above photo - the right opening is outflow - the one that redirects the airflow from the box entry snorkel - upwards to the filter and media - so to see the "pressurization effects" and how it can bring up the debris, is why I took this director out - to save the media from being "caked" in dirt.
To find water and salt stains from only one year of driving was enough to convince me that I had to rethink the preservation of the vehicle.
In normal use - this dirt would normally fall off or shake loose while driving, acting like a boiling motion, only slowly - air with the dirt would rise up then the heavier dirt and dust sand and grains precipitate down into the bottom of the air box thru vibration and settling with time, but in certain instances, the media can get wet and this dirt and stuff simply adheres to the media.
It's seem counterintuitive to think that "ram air" is the best method, well, it can work - but you need to provide a deceleration of that air so it can deposit the sediment off the airstream before the pressure front can force that debris into the media. Slow down the velocity of the pressure by allowing the expansion of air into the chamber - allowing the sediments to precipitate out - the change in volume decelerates the air giving the larger particulates a change to fall out but doesn't change the pressure that brought it in. Adds to the plenum effect.
It just seems smarter to remove the internal baffle. Takes away a potential problem of shoving dirt into the filter and shortening it's life - during the life cycle that filter can be checked and removed / changed as needed and you can then look for the debris that would otherwise have rammed into the filter media - would sit in the bottom of the airbox. As a usual practice, it is a needed step, remove the airbox cap, take out the filter and tap the media to shake loose the debris it trapped - let's you see the dirt, and examine the filter for changing as necessary.
I took out he director to take a course of action to keep the unavoidable problem of loose debris that is picked up by the airflow vacuum caused by acceleration from reducing the effectiveness of the media - it is not in the filter - it just rests on the bottom in the airbox canister.
That way you can remove the lower airbox canister on a regular basis and just shake it out like you do with a vacuum canister.
I've done it now for over 6 months - no detrimental effects and I do go over the vehicle once I get it back from an oil change - per the wife.
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