Pedal sensor (accelerator)

[Mercurios2011]

My HUD only reads 84% (TPS) at full throttle , it can go from any % to max 84% pretty quick , but I have never been able to hit 100% even with this new pedal sensor that I installed few hours ago.
I can only assume few things,
1. Even with the reflash the stock MAF won't allow it , and I have yet to find a HPerfomace MAF
2 The pedal itself has a built in restrictive range ,is like it has a built in stop at the bottom preventing from going futher down
3 The HUD can't read it simply because it can't keepup since it reads from the OBD2 and not directly from either the ETB or the APS


Has anyone here had a similar issue?
Thanks in Advance

 

[scotman]

The accelerator pedal failure is not common. It’s not a high voltage sensor. So, it isn’t an item that gets very warm as a consequence of doing it’s job. I’ve seen a couple of them that the failure exhibited itself by having one or more dead spots in its operating range of motion. It’s just one of those things that occasionally happens.

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Many (possibly most) drive by wire cars dont achieve 100% throttle plate angle even when the driver full applies the throttle.

 

[Handy Andy]

The pedal (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor - APP) uses two separate outputs from two types of power supply. One for the PCM, which is that Pulse Width and the other is a simple resistive range.

​

You Gotta' be careful, because one power supply feed is directly fused to the "Hot in Start or Run" section of the Engines' Fuse Box to power the side of the pedal that uses Pulse Width (a method of averaging is done back at the PCM) modulation signal (that whine you can hear from the engine when it's off - as the throttle body "seeks" that setting) as you modulate the pedal.

A second power supply is the HS CAM - so that is low voltage 5V logic stuff and is a simple Resistive result send to the Instrument cluster - that power is supplied thru the Body Control Module.

So in reality WOT is all that the system needs to attain, so that can get set from 70% to all the way up 100% - but the results you see on the HUD is what it thinks it is - then that is dependent on the results the Pods see from one side of the sensor, not necessarily what the PCM is setting the throttle to - that feedback is pre-set for the PCM to worry about.

Best way to check is to remove the snorkel and have someone move the pedal to various positions and call out so you can shine a light into the throttle body bore and observe the plate and it's position.

 

[Mercurios2011]

the pedal won't allow any ajustment, 2 Bolts with no wiggle room 🤷‍♂️ , i did press and depress very slowly with key in acc mode to reset the new unit to the also new ETB, the car runs fine , just seems kinda odd on the reading , so I was wondering if yall had similar issue

 

[Mercurios2011]

The accelerator pedal failure is not common. It’s not a high voltage sensor. So, it isn’t an item that gets very warm as a consequence of doing it’s job. I’ve seen a couple of them that the failure exhibited itself by having one or more dead spots in its operating range of motion. It’s just one of those things that occasionally happens.

It just quit working and left me on foot , luckily I was at dads , and course I replaced with the same unit that came originally equipped wich is HeLLa

 

[scotman]

That procedure you had to do is called “slope determination”.

 

[Mercurios2011]

Ahh I see, I found it on a video from a UK owner
While I did read in a different page altogether saying to press and depress 5 times in a 15 / 30 secs time frame that didn't work the 1st time, so I after I installed the new ETB did it the simple way and the car crank and inmediatly idle itself quietly, didn't even had to wait for the ETB to calibrate itself like I had to the very first time it was replaced, now I can resume the Bolt ons chasing that massive whooping 2.5/5 hp gains 😂🤞