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Wondering if there is a common cause of the combination of these troube codes.

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City
Agassiz
State
WA
Country
Canada
What I Drive
2013 Fiesta
#1
Greetings,
My 2013 Fiesta has been off the road for a year. Just put a new battery in it and using a good trouble code reader, we've established the following codes:
P1116 ECT Sensor out of self test range.
P1184 Engine oil temp out of self test range.
P1464 A/C demand out of self test range.
P2127 Throttle pedal position sensor/switch e-curcuit low.
I doubt if all of these happened at the same time, unless there is a common issue that could be resolved with some or all codes.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated
 

Handy Andy

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Grand Rapids
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MI
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2018 Ford Fiesta SE HB
#2
Had any rodents get into the car?

Self-Test Range - kinda far fetched - sounds more like corroded or broken wiring - might be sudden due to rodents trying to nest somewhere in a parked car that has not been used in a while.

Why the wiring? Key words - Self-Test Range - a type of diagnostic a system will be performed when the car wakes up or has a new battery or if the power cables were ever changed; they interrupted the power in the system - so it does this to make sure that all the devices are getting power and are returning the power to the system in an expected range or value.

1751421177681.png
The above in a possible example and explanation so you can see how the sensors
using battery voltage as power - are designed to output a signal when all their
input and output lines are properly connected.​

Reasoning:
ECT sensor is a simple Temperature sensor sender - meaning it sends data to the Instrument Console and PCM.
  • To even know it is there, it sends a voltage to the component as part of a self-test diagnostic routine the PCM and Instrument Cluster are capable of processing
    • It's why you have the Dashboard like up with all those Icons when you START your car
Oddly the Oil Temperature response is new - so this may mean there is something afoot in the PCM.

I'd look at making sure all the connectors to the PCM are tight and their pry bar (swivel lever) used to remove or install them (seat them with pressure to ensure a tight water-tight/resistance fit) on their connector are properly seated - also check the wiring harness and inspect it for kinks, nicks and some type of damage - you can see this by comparing the harness to a known good harness in a car or vehicle right next to it. You would not see any frayed wires or corrosion evidence and discoloration if they were normal.
1751421908242.png
 

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