UPDATE 2014 will not start Please help.

[8up]

**UPDATE** i HAVE WENT FROM 42 CODES TO 3.
I have a 2014 black Fiesta that had a manual trans in it. The transmission had a fatal destruction. I found another 2014 that had rolled.It had 100k less then the black car, so I decided to swap its motor and AUTOMATIC trans into the black car. The wrecked car had drivers knee, curtain and seat airbags deployed..

I can answer any questions on how I did the swap if it will help someone understand how to help me. After we finished the swap we used the donor cars PCM, Body control module, and IPC. We also used a manual online and did our best to add any wires that the black car did not have. The car will not turn over. It lets you turn the key to Start 1 time but nothing happens. you then have to turn the key all the way back before you can go to start.

After some research I ordered the OBDLink EX FORScan OBD Adapter and became a member here. I had no problems connecting the adapter to the car and my laptop.

Can anyone suggest where I should start?

Vehicle VIN WRONG VIN 3FADP4BJ6EM106005 ( Donor car) Correct VIN SHOULD BE 3FADP4BJ3EM160524

PCM NONE WRONG VIN 3FADP4BJ6EM106005 ( Donor car)
OBDII NONE WRONG VIN 3FADP4BJ6EM106005 ( Donor car)

APIM NONE WRONG VIN 3FADP4BJ6EM106005 ( Donor car)

ABS , U3002:62-AB WRONG VIN 425061ME3JB4PDAF3 No idea where this VIN came from

RCM NONE WRONG VIN 3FADP4BJ6EM106005 ( Donor car)

PSCM U3002:62-0A CORRECT VIN MATCHES CAR 3FADP4BJ3EM160524

ACM NONE WRONG VIN 3FADP4BJ6EM106005 ( Donor car)

IPC U0257:87-0F WRONG VIN 3FADP4BJ6EM106005 ( Donor car)

BdyCM NONE WRONG VIN 3FADP4BJ6EM106005 ( Donor car)

GPSM NONE WRONG VIN 3FADP4BJ6EM106005 ( Donor car)



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[Handy Andy]

There are "other modules" you'll need to "transfer over"

One main one being the Instrument Cluster - the pods - that holds the ODO information and also acts as a backup for the PCM checksum for it's own integrity. It could be the reason the immobilizer message came up - for the PCM and the Pods own memory are different and have two different ODO readings.

The APIM and even the Radio might have to come over too.

To add - the swapped into car is/was an Auto, but the car it came from was Manual - so the PCM will even have wiring changes to "lockout" and prevent Automatic transmission engagement because your 2nd car was wired that way - this requires a rewire of the PCM and the pins it uses from Auto expecting a TCM, to Manual - looking for Clutch position A and B limit switches and Cruise control is wired differently for the Manual for it uses one of the Brake pedals switches as a means to cancel the cruise control.

This is due to the WIRING - not that the harnesses are exactly the same - there are differences in the PCM and ways it looks for input and controls. So some wires work, others won't and although the PCM and PODS should have taken and worked - the rest of the system still left in the 2nd car is still looking for an Automatic.

Just to name a few...

 

[8up]

Thanks for the reply Andy. I have everything from the donor car so I can move anything over. I added 6 wires into the c140 inline connection. donor car had them. I have connected 4 of 6 The other 2 wires are White-Blue and White. These 2 are pins 12 and 13 of c140 inline. I may be wrong but I took this to mean the OBD but the when I checked there there was already WH & WH-BU wires in place.

What modules would you figure I need to swap ?

 

[Handy Andy]

What you have to get past is the points where the OEM profiles of the car is stored.

That is mostly in the PCM, but the Dash pods any SYNC units and even TCM and ABS need to looked into.

Why? The biggest ones were due to the Auto versus Manual.

When I got my '18 the profile had set up Traction Control even though it's a manual 5-speed - the problem lies in the Autos' ability to knock down gears faster or as needed when Traction Control engages - but in a Manual - you're fighting the very thing that you don't want to do - unless you're into coasting. You should try to keep the transmission in a gear for braking. It is , when the skid control is braking and stalling the motor because you didn't shift down or out of gear as it would do if it was an automatic to it's anticipation of a gear that meets the speed that then the sensors release and it thinks it's no longer in a skid.

In some recent posts there was a way for Forscan to force an "As built" but you had to find the Module you needed the profile from - to force the others to comply - so maybe that is what is your next step - try to locate a Forscan diagnostics unit that lets you force the PCM from your old Manual to force a condition of As Built so the other modules will re-learn from what the PCM from the old car had.

That is also where the CAN bus system "teaches" the others thru it's communication and LIN (Local Information Net) low speed communication system. It's what it uses between basic systems and the more dedicated CAN Bus systems when the As Built is invoked.

 

[scotman]

Basically, the car doesn't recognize the new drive train. Being a Can bus networked car, you will need to get a forscan key and program on a laptop computer to go into it and correct the communication errors by editing the "

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

If you go that route...

You can get "As built" from the Forscan forum by VIN...<<HERE>>
However, we "lesser" Fiesta dont benefit from spreadsheets of reverse decoded codes for various modules that the FiST, FoST, F150 & Mustang crowd enjoy.
You can purchase a connector on amazon to work with Forscan...see products section.
If you only figure you need it once, you can get a 2 month license for free.

Good luck, keep us posted!!

 

[8up]

If you go that route...

You can get "As built" from the Forscan forum by VIN...<<HERE>>
However, we "lesser" Fiesta dont benefit from spreadsheets of reverse decoded codes for various modules that the FiST, FoST, F150 & Mustang crowd enjoy.
You can purchase a connector on amazon to work with Forscan...see products section.
If you only figure you need it once, you can get a 2 month license for free.

Good luck, keep us posted!!

Thank you for the reply, which adapter should I get?

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Depends on your operating system choice. Windows/iOS/Android. also, USB or Bluetooth are available.

I have not purchased this product, but this is the one I have eyed...https://www.obdlink.com/products/obdlink-ex/?ref=forscan
Its for Windows/USB. Its available a bit cheaper from Amazon.

 

[8up]

I swapped the Instrument cluster and that gave me the right mileage I swapped the PATS module. I started taking the dash apart and when I pulled the 6" screen out and found the sync modules to be very different..The biggest difference is the sync module is connected to the screen thru a plug. Now what ? (I have a cable ordered to use with FORScan )

 

[Handy Andy]

Wow...

The black box SYNC unit, seems to use the SAME connector - only say, on mine the black box is UNDER the Glovebox while this unit, since it's is predecessor - piggys onto the SYNC unit in the FRONT console - so the location is different - but the connector looks to be the same - even to the USB connectors.

So the piggy unit - the one for that older display - is the one you need to keep if you wish to keep the older head and style - else you'll need a new front display.

Part of this problem goes back to what I've told others earlier - when they tried to swap "head units" for their audio system, to a different year - the CHIPSET and it's support are different - your post plainly - and painfully - shows this.

Before you go too far, were you able to get rid of many of the errors when you fixed the PATS system?

Then the older SYNC unit might not need to go - you may be able to keep it and it's OEM wiring. Can't guarantee it.

Had to quick post the above, wanted to add in this - see the connector on the OLDER unit (looks to be from your vehicle) that is where the Audio stereo system "tape monitor loop" goes and shows the frequency and mode display and any RDS music info thru the series data ports in the wiring connector.

So this may sound confusing but did your car have the older single-color (amber?) hex-segment display unit or are you using a LCD hi-res monitor display?

The LCD hi-res display uses a asynchronous type of connection and is why all those pins at the SYNC unit for the CAN bus, but the display module is far simpler hookup as you seem to be finding out - but it needs the NEWER (Black box) Sync unit to handle that data load the system surrendered to, and the rest of the high speed stuff just shuttles back and forth from the PCM and Pods - while the SYNC just "mirrors" that data until you hit MENU.

 

[8up]

Wow...

The black box SYNC unit, seems to use the SAME connector - only say, on mine the black box is UNDER the Glovebox while this unit, since it's is predecessor - piggys onto the SYNC unit in the FRONT console - so the location is different - but the connector looks to be the same - even to the USB connectors.

So the piggy unit - the one for that older display - is the one you need to keep if you wish to keep the older head and style - else you'll need a new front display.

Part of this problem goes back to what I've told others earlier - when they tried to swap "head units" for their audio system, to a different year - the CHIPSET and it's support are different - your post plainly - and painfully - shows this.

Before you go too far, were you able to get rid of many of the errors when you fixed the PATS system?

Then the older SYNC unit might not need to go - you may be able to keep it and it's OEM wiring. Can't guarantee it.

Had to quick post the above, wanted to add in this - see the connector on the OLDER unit (looks to be from your vehicle) that is where the Audio stereo system "tape monitor loop" goes and shows the frequency and mode display and any RDS music info thru the series data ports in the wiring connector.

So this may sound confusing but did your car have the older single-color (amber?) hex-segment display unit or are you using a LCD hi-res monitor display?

The LCD hi-res display uses a asynchronous type of connection and is why all those pins at the SYNC unit for the CAN bus, but the display module is far simpler hookup as you seem to be finding out - but it needs the NEWER (Black box) Sync unit to handle that data load the system surrendered to, and the rest of the high speed stuff just shuttles back and forth from the PCM and Pods - while the SYNC just "mirrors" that data until you hit MENU.

Sorry to say most of that went over my head. But Both of the units came out of the two 2014 Fiestas I have in my position. Both are stock. If I remember right the difference between them is 5 months.

 

[Handy Andy]

Ok, perhaps this might help...

The OEM car your original one, only has a Audio System - but the SYNC unit - being version 1 is from the other one you got - note the different Ford numbering strings - and the Date Code.

This is what I meant by the "upgrade" - they changed the "nose" and also includes SYNC which upgraded the Audio unit.

You can see that in just the Date code.

So since your car was "mid year" they brought about the changes thru amortization of older stock and it shows by the Ford String Yours - C1BT - 18B955 - GB while the car you're moving into has SYNC and C1BT - 14F239 - CK and a later Date code.

This makes the whole affair a bigger mess due to the dates and chipset changes.

 

[8up]

Ok, perhaps this might help...
View attachment 8548
The OEM car your original one, only has a Audio System - but the SYNC unit - being version 1 is from the other one you got - note the different Ford numbering strings - and the Date Code.

This is what I meant by the "upgrade" - they changed the "nose" and also includes SYNC which upgraded the Audio unit.

You can see that in just the Date code.

So since your car was "mid year" they brought about the changes thru amortization of older stock and it shows by the Ford String Yours - C1BT - 18B955 - GB while the car you're moving into has SYNC and C1BT - 14F239 - CK and a later Date code.

This makes the whole affair a bigger mess due to the dates and chipset changes.

Your not giving me a good feeling about this lol. It might be easier to put the 1966 390 in it lol

 

[8up]

This one is a lot easier to work on.

 

[8up]

this is what 1st log

 

[8up]

Ok, perhaps this might help...
.

please look at 1st post I updated it

 

[Handy Andy]

Wrong VIN - due to all of them expecting a "Host" to have the same VIN - so now you have "Nothing wrong" except the VIN - you need someone with FORscan or a dealership that can execute a "As Built" where the VIN takes precedence and then initiates a routine that tells the system to "adopt" the orphaned parts.

I see in the list, and I believe it's part of the problem, you do not have your PCM - you're using the Donor.

So you'll have to make a choice - if you accept the Donor - you don't have the manual - it will think it's an Auto.

So you'll need more parts from the original car - so you can set a hierarchy that more parts from your original can reside in the new host. The main ones being PCM and Instrument Cluster

The VIN (again) is a string of digits designed as a unique fingerprint of the vehicle - you're transferring one to the other, but need more of the original so you can override the hosts'.

To help with that here is an attached PDF to guide you in knowing the string that VIN code is.

 

[8up]

So you'll have to make a choice - if you accept the Donor - you don't have the manual - it will think it's an Auto.

It is an Auto now.

 

[8up]

So you'll need more parts from the original car - so you can set a hierarchy that more parts from your original can reside in the new host. The main ones being PCM and Instrument Cluster

It is an auto now and PCM , IPC,BdyCM are all from my donor.

I think, I may switch the ignition & ABS over from donor as well