Oil Leak Up High

[Pipsfc]

Hi!

New to the forums and hoping I can get some help. I noticed my 2013 Fiesta SE is leaking oil on the passenger side. Was about to do an oil change but I want to fix this issue first. I'm at 75K miles. I've attached some photos to show the oil build up. I'm not sure what the item is plugged in where I have circled in red but it seems the oil is around this part.

 

[Handy Andy]

One of the "Timing Advance" solenoids seems to have lost it's seal.

Will need a trip to the service department.

They are in pairs.

Intake side and Exhaust side...

You're leak is on the Exhaust side.

So, for it to show leaks, may mean internal damage - these things control oil into and out of a chamber in the twin overhead cam pulley just to the left of your top rear picture. So it may mean you have some more investigating and possibly a belt replacement too. Inside the timing Belt cover is the chamber on the inward side of that exhaust side pulley wheel (towards the solenoid). If there's oil coating the inside of the belt housing, this signals more seals failing and oil leaks are a sure sign of less life left in the motor - you either overhaul it, or get a rebuilt one - the seals failing - usually means the motor is off kilter internally.

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Here's what I know, the solenoids that control the oil flow into and out of that camshaft assembly, have oil seals - the little ring seals shown in the above photo - and they work all the time, when you accelerate and decelerate - so there's no real way to disable one and still be able to get some more life out of it.

The Valve cover, if it starts leaking - is a simple gasket fix, but when you see oil "wetting" on the solenoid, no, it's NOT from the Valve Cover, it's an oil "O" ring seal and possibly a bent or worn solenoid shaft too.

You may also have a "oil vapor" pressure problem - dealing with the PCV valve, located on the FRONT INTAKE side of the motor, if the valve has become plugged, it can force vapors and combustion blow-by from the pistons (again worn engine and limited service life left) to build up pressure inside the motor case - this pressure build until something gives. Usually a Seal - sometimes it's worse.

IF the PCV valve has not been changed or if you were even aware of it having one, there's your sign. Better go get to a dealer or service station that knows this engine - hopefully you can get this corrected and only lose a pair of solenoids, a new PCV valve and some time in the shop.

If you don't this is a sure sign of extra wear and oil loss that will leave you stranded someday.

 

[Pipsfc]

One of the "Timing Advance" solenoids seems to have lost it's seal.

Will need a trip to the service department.

They are in pairs.

Intake side and Exhaust side...

You're leak is on the Exhaust side.

So, for it to show leaks, may mean internal damage - these things control oil into and out of a chamber in the twin overhead cam pulley just to the left of your top rear picture. So it may mean you have some more investigating and possibly a belt replacement too. Inside the timing Belt cover is the chamber on the inward side of that exhaust side pulley wheel (towards the solenoid). If there's oil coating the inside of the belt housing, this signals more seals failing and oil leaks are a sure sign of less life left in the motor - you either overhaul it, or get a rebuilt one - the seals failing - usually means the motor is off kilter internally.

View attachment 4316​

Here's what I know, the solenoids that control the oil flow into and out of that camshaft assembly, have oil seals - the little ring seals shown in the above photo - and they work all the time, when you accelerate and decelerate - so there's no real way to disable one and still be able to get some more life out of it.

The Valve cover, if it starts leaking - is a simple gasket fix, but when you see oil "wetting" on the solenoid, no, it's NOT from the Valve Cover, it's an oil "O" ring seal and possibly a bent or worn solenoid shaft too.

You may also have a "oil vapor" pressure problem - dealing with the PCV valve, located on the FRONT INTAKE side of the motor, if the valve has become plugged, it can force vapors and combustion blow-by from the pistons (again worn engine and limited service life left) to build up pressure inside the motor case - this pressure build until something gives. Usually a Seal - sometimes it's worse.

IF the PCV valve has not been changed or if you were even aware of it having one, there's your sign. Better go get to a dealer or service station that knows this engine - hopefully you can get this corrected and only lose a pair of solenoids, a new PCV valve and some time in the shop.

If you don't this is a sure sign of extra wear and oil loss that will leave you stranded someday.

I really appreciate the detailed answer. I have had significant rattling sounds when I decrease my speed at slower speeds. Do think this is any indication of the suggestions you mentored?

 

[scotman]

You are experiencing detonation. The cam phaser isn't able to accurately adjust timing.
When the zetec 2liter was released with this technical feature i was intimidated by the prospect of the problems that poor maintenance would bring. But, that has not been the case.
I still preach the gospel of high quality motor oil and filters replaced regularly. Its the cheapest insurance.
Good call Andy!

 

[Handy Andy]

I really appreciate the detailed answer. I have had significant rattling sounds when I decrease my speed at slower speeds. Do think this is any indication of the suggestions you mentored?

As long as you understand the seriousness of this kind of event, this can also cause the "predetonation" a.k.a Spark Knock.

I hope that when they remove the solenoid, it's all still in one piece, not something in pieces where it fell into that camshaft advance timing assembly where the oil presses, flows into those vanes. This is where oil pressure pushes them apart (revving up motor), changing the valves timing of how they open and close - there is a sensor on back side, by the Transmission - sees this change - when you slow down, the chamber may hold pressure to allow for emission timing lean events to occur to keep the exhaust running lean to stay in emission control.- but if it can't do this long enough - it can set a Trouble Code.

If you don't have your "engine light" on now, it tells me it' will be on - only in a matter of time.

 

[LionsTooth]

"engine light"

= Impending Doom Light or Too Late Light