different ball joint diameters

[dwbtd]

have a 2012 SES version 5 speed/hatchback- made in mexico - vin 3fadp4fj1cm112124a
the ball joint that is in the car is about 2" in diameter but all the parts stores piece is about 1 5/8" - any ideas what is going on - could someone have switched out the control arm?? thanks

 

[LionsTooth]

Well, without going into a bunch of research, if the part store insists it's a direct replacement it probably is. I also notice the old one has a grease zirk (that would explain why the body is bigger, it retains grease & needs re-greasing x-number of miles), where the new one is sealed and self-lubricating. If you are concerned that interference OD on the joint is different than the ID on of the control arm, then yes, that is an issue.

 

[dwbtd]

Yep the control arm must be from different year or even model. The hole in it is 3/8 bigger than ball joint. Hopefully some knows what the arm came off of. Thanks

 

[scotman]

When I was searching for ball joints that came with a grease zerk i found several of them that had a beefy socket. But absolutely none with a zerk fitting. Any brand marks on the zerked version?

 

[dwbtd]

might be a MK - zerk I dont care about - just the dia being about 2" thanks

 

[Handy Andy]

Usually (IMHO) When I see this - I see someone whom owned the car before you had to do some quick thinking and made some on the fly changes.

So, this means they could have even been changing the steering knuckle - and even the bearings - so is the FORD 108mm (4.25") 4-bolt still on there? Or did they use something more exotic and totally changed out the front end to something from a scrapyard? Thinking Ford Escort...

So, since the Ball joint "stud" if it's the same diameter as the STOCK one, then what they did is change the tie-rod end of the arm - the one that bolts to the extension - they then used the socket it came with to fit it on that extension arm.

The Focus, Contour and Probe I knew of had similar "bolt on - and - across the line" because all the wheel parts were interchangeable.

Dad proved that when he had to fix Mom's Contour.

Another clue? The "Zerk fitting" shows the "age of the device" meaning it's from a previous generation or two of vehicles.

 

[scotman]

I don't see an issue with a slightly larger diameter socket area on the rod ends! These parts take quite a beating from the impact loads of rough roads.
On our Fiesta's the outer steering linkage end and the single, rather undersized ball joint is ground zero for impact loads.
My reference books for chassis engineering on competition vehicles don't touch on the benefits of a larger diameter ball and socket on the steering linkage and suspension beyond some discussion about the possible change in the instant center calculation and then the slight change in friction by having an increased surface area ( because the ball and socket are bigger).
To my mind, a little bigger diameter ball stud and socket, over the stock size, is a good thing. Our roads suck. The steering linkage ends and especially the lower ball joints take the full initial impact. That zerk fitting is nice to be able add some lube to that highly stressed point.
All that minutiae aside, just install two new rod ends of the same brand, set the toe and forget about it.

 

[dwbtd]

Usually (IMHO) When I see this - I see someone whom owned the car before you had to do some quick thinking and made some on the fly changes.

So, this means they could have even been changing the steering knuckle - and even the bearings - so is the FORD 108mm (4.25") 4-bolt still on there? Or did they use something more exotic and totally changed out the front end to something from a scrapyard? Thinking Ford Escort...

So, since the Ball joint "stud" if it's the same diameter as the STOCK one, then what they did is change the tie-rod end of the arm - the one that bolts to the extension - they then used the socket it came with to fit it on that extension arm.

The Focus, Contour and Probe I knew of had similar "bolt on - and - across the line" because all the wheel parts were interchangeable.

Dad proved that when he had to fix Mom's Contour.

Another clue? The "Zerk fitting" shows the "age of the device" meaning it's from a previous generation or two of vehicles.

I'll be working on it tomorrow and check out your ideas. Thanks

 

[dwbtd]

I don't see an issue with a slightly larger diameter socket area on the rod ends! These parts take quite a beating from the impact loads of rough roads.
On our Fiesta's the outer steering linkage end and the single, rather undersized ball joint is ground zero for impact loads.
My reference books for chassis engineering on competition vehicles don't touch on the benefits of a larger diameter ball and socket on the steering linkage and suspension beyond some discussion about the possible change in the instant center calculation and then the slight change in friction by having an increased surface area ( because the ball and socket are bigger).
To my mind, a little bigger diameter ball stud and socket, over the stock size, is a good thing. Our roads suck. The steering linkage ends and especially the lower ball joints take the full initial impact. That zerk fitting is nice to be able add some lube to that highly stressed point.
All that minutiae aside, just install two new rod ends of the same brand, set the toe and forget about it.

 

[dwbtd]

But this is not the steering linkage but the control arm ball joint.

 

[scotman]

But this is not the steering linkage but the control arm ball joint.

Yes. I understand. Is the non matching part causing an issue? My point was "bigger" is not generally a problem.
I would have to guess that you have an aftermarket control arm that has a non stock sized ball joint. I cant recall ever seeing a replacement part that didn't very closely copy the original. Its not a big deal to just change it for one that is closer to the O.E. part.

 

[Handy Andy]

I see your problem (I think...)





To help label...

​

You might need a new control ARM... the lower Ball joint is the control ARM itself - it's a one-piece unit...

A video here can help with that...

The part number for the ARMs are...
Lower Control Arm - Ford (BE8Z3078C) - RIGHT

Lower Control Arm - Ford (BE8Z3079C) - LEFT

 

[Handy Andy]

IF you stomach the above, the bigger question is why you have such a different size is beyond me except to have replaced the knuckle with a different one from another vehicle. Or if not replaced, they MODIFIED the OEM Control ARM to fit this new ball joint that is now why your back in the shop later.


If your car has got a lot of miles, then this would explain it - but the control arm itself is rather unique to the vehicle. So, it's Ball Joint is part of the arm.

And why are they showing you a part that is integral with the lower arm?

Although you can change it yourself - for the better way is to REPLACE the arm with a new one considering Safety and age - it is better to replace the whole arm than to try and replace the ball joint for as this is reawakening a light bulb going off inside my head, this may mean they "reamed" out the old and put in a different one and you're better off just replacing the whole arm.

Why? You get the new ball joint - but if they did this to both sides of the car, then you'll have to replace both control arms to keep symmetry.

 

[dwbtd]

thanks all - replacing the entire arm is my fall back option- but going to keep working on what this arm came from. It looks to be the only part changed and was not shop made so not sure why they did it.

 

[LionsTooth]

thanks all - replacing the entire arm is my fall back option- but going to keep working on what this arm came from. It looks to be the only part changed and was not shop made so not sure why they did it.

Does it still have the barcode sticker on it somewhere? Maybe that would lead you somewhere?

 

[dwbtd]

Does it still have the barcode sticker on it somewhere? Maybe that would lead you somewhere?

Im not that lucky.

 

[dwbtd]

ok so tracked it down - aftermarket supplier Precision Engineering makes it (pn 5CB40186) and sold by Oreilly - and only comes with ball joint installed - not great news $ wise but now I know -

 

[Handy Andy]

Sorry to see you get dragged thru this agony - but it's the whole arm.

So, to know this - at least, it's the WHOLE kit-and-kaboodle

Thats not a bad price either.​