2015 fiesta electrical issues no crank no fuel pump

[Fuelsmoke1]

Hey gang. Need some help before I haul to the dealer.
I bought this 2015 fiesta not running. Its a 1.6L 5 speed manual car. I was told it was running and driving and then just wouldn't start one day. They tried a lot of redneckery and I don't really know exactly what they did do. They did have a locksmith come program a new key because they thought it had a key immobilizer issue. When I got it when key ON nothing lit up in dash. After testing all fuses under hood and in car, found 15A ignition fuse popped in the inside fuse block. Now I have dash function and things are happening. Problem is, no fuel pump when key on, no crank.
So battery and connections are good. Grounds on engine and car are good. Starter will crank the engine if jumped from underneath.
When I turn key to start it says push brake and clutch. I push only brake and not clutch I don't get another message. A relay in the inner fuse panel clicks when I try to engage starter with key. So I think there's a problem between brake and clutch switches. I checked clutch switch, no power to either side, it may just connect ground but I'm not sure at this point. But to eliminate the clutch switch I unplugged it and put jumper in. Still no crank. Ignition switch is putting out signal to start. Not sure it's getting beyond the fuse panel inside or perhaps the PCM itself.
I replaced a fuse and relay in the outer panel, forgot the numbers but are apparently common failure points with these cars. Didn't help my situation.
So at this point, I am not sure what to do. A question I have, if immobilizer is the issue, how could I verify that? I get no fuel pump when key is turned on, and no crank at all. Will immobilizer make that happen or is there something else I should be looking at?
Another thing, it has code for throttle body unit and throttle pedal and coolant temp high. But it's cold.
I usually work on older cars, Ive dealt with enough electronics over the years as a diesel tech and on my own stuff but I'm just not sure what or how to look at this security system. I suspect it may be at least part of the problem??
I'm going to go hug my 55 Ford customline and see if I can get some clarity 😂
Sorry for the long drawn out post, hoping to clear up the first 50 questions I'd get about checking common things.

 

[Handy Andy]

As things may go - in the former Manual cars I've owned - the START switch - the one you press the clutch down all the way to engage - grounds to frame, but if you have no power, then a MAIN relay or the wire that routes to the STARTER relay to GROUND that wire - would show 12 to power the coil and 0V when the pedal is all the way to the floor and the switch is grounding that wire. So one wire would have 12V battery, while the other is left to 0V - so when the switch shorts that completes the circuit and the relay makes the solenoid and start move.

So you just have to retrace back to the starter relay - now I'm not sure but have you inspected the steering wheel and tumbler assembly? The thing uses a "lockout" that lets you twist the key all the way to start ONCE - then locks out any further attempts until you twist the key all the way to off.

This "lockout" may provide a clue as to you may have a relay in the steering column behind the clock-spring and switch assemblies - it rests back there as a means to force the starter solenoid to engage when it's circuit is completed to ground. Else that start relay is back at the main fuse panel in the engine compartment - but the European ones have the relay nestled in the steering column behind the wheel, switch and clock-spring.

 

[Fuelsmoke1]

Thanks for the reply. I didn't know about a relay behind the steering wheel. Great engineering there 😂. I do get the start signal off the ignition switch every time I hit it. I do think there may be a problem with brake and clutch pedal switches. If I don't touch pedals and try to start, center display says push brake and clutch to start. If I push brake that message doesn't pop up. But it doesn't seem to care if I push clutch or not. Also concerning is the lack of fuel pump. I feel like I have one common enemy causing all of this together but I'm not sure. More testing. All I can do is prove it out.

 

[Fuelsmoke1]

As I dig into this,I have another issue that may be the cause of all of this. When I turn key on, display says engine malfunction. I was clearing it and ignoring it. I checked with my scanner and it says throttle pedal is issue. I checked live data and it thinks throttle pedal is at 99.3% no matter the pedal position. I removed pedal/sensor and tested it, it's not changing ohms when pedal is moved. Safe to say it needs a new pedal assembly. Also it claims to have issues with throttle body unit itself. I'm going to get the new pedal first and see if anything changes. It could be that when the pedal was failing it threw a code for the throttle body unit because they were out of sync so to speak.
I will keep plugging away at this rig. We'll get to the bottom of this thing yet!

 

[Handy Andy]

It may be why it won't start, but would still let it crank and crank...

The throttle body doesn't give a resistive reading - it gives - sends, a signal of output to tell the PCM it's position and compares it to the accelerators own position

There is a thread or two about the throttle body - see if a search on this sites forums can can offer some help!

 

[Fuelsmoke1]

I will get the new pedal w/sensor and see what happens. I can't get the starter to engage with the key. Wiring under the hood looks undamaged. I have found anything loose or disconnected. I figured I won't do anything to the throttle body unit until I can get it running. I question if I don't have a PCM issue. I wonder if there's a service that could take my PCM and check it out and repair or replace it if needed without involving the dealer. I'm not sure it will come to that but it's possible I suppose.

 

[Mercurios2011]

That relay that clicks inside the glove box, is it gray and some what bigger than the rest ?

if so by all means replace it , it has to do with the pcm ,there is also a fuel pump relay aside the fuse under hood compartment ,

what is odd, is that you are getting power in some places and not others

have you tried poping the clutch in 2d gear ?.. is a very long shot specially since there is no power at fuel pump, but the jerk sometimes looses what ever is stuck

can't hurt to try right?..

 

[Fuelsmoke1]

Well I hadn't tried bump starting it. I did crank the engine by jumping the stater solenoid and it turns the engine junk fine. Just not getting signal from the cockpit. I will try replacing that relay. Cheap enough even if it doesn't work. There was a 2nd one in the car but both look to be older. I'm not sure what the PO did to it. They had kick panels off, cover I der steer column off, and the cover around the column too. Looks they got into everything, probably trying to find the issue. I'm just afraid they did something foolish and fried a key component, like the PCM.
I did swap around fuel relay with another one. Relay has power to it, just not clicking on. The ignition fuse was popped when I got it. It had no power to dash then. I replaced it and got a lot working but there's obviously more wrong.
I never have easy problems 😂

 

[Mercurios2011]

maybe the ignition switch itself?.. it's a 20 dollar piece of plastic , part number I have is CSC2642 and connector is PTC 1725

also the electronic steering assist fuse is liked to the anti theft system, wipers and ignition (21) inside glove box

is there a blinking red light on steering column indicating working passive theft system ?

other option would be to disable the immobilizer system , but I know for a fact that's 100 - 200 dollar job in itself depending who does it

https://www.startmycar.com/us/ford/fiesta/info/fusebox/2015

maybe that link helps

 

[Fuelsmoke1]

I have tested the switch and it works properly. I verified all fuses are good and ate allowing power through. I tested everything possible with key on with a multimeter to make sure I wasn't missing anything.
As for the anti theft system, I have no idea. I don't see an anti theft light in the dash at all. I assume it's working because it says key not detected if I take the reader off the key switch and try to start it, the display in center of dash says key not detected. Other than that, I don't know where the light itself it's, if it has one. I tried finding pictures of a 15 fiesta instrument panel to see where it should 6, and I found nothing. I read somewhere that it might it have a light at all. And that seems like the case here. When I turn key on and all the dash warning light come on, there's no theft light. I honestly have no idea if the anti theft system is active and working? It may well be my whole problem.
I don't know if there's a scanner I could buy that could read that system? I have to get the throttle pedal and try it but honestly I am getting close to needing the dealer. And I really hate the thought of that.

 

[Mercurios2011]

I took video of mine but says file to large to upload , is right above fuel gauge , it blinks intermittent

what if and this is a BIG what if, when they came to "reprogram" key that ignition fuse was blown and they did not see it, so when they perform the procedure ,

it just didn't married the key to the pcm? and or took it out sync from the original key

one thing I learned from flashing my car was , to make sure all fuses and relays are good and there is constant steady 13.v to the battery , via booster ,charger or simply using a larger battery with thick jump

cables, the slightest drop in voltage can actually brick/lock the PCM when performing any procedure to it , so if that ignition fuse was blown the "reprograming" might never actually happened

or in fact something was damage in doing so .

find you a local tuner , they can see if the pcm is in fact bricked or the checksums are corrupted , least you will rule the pcm out altogether..

 

[Fuelsmoke1]

Well that's certainly a good possibility that the key or the anti theft is not right in one way or another. When it has key reader off the switch it says key not detected. And it doesn't say that when it is in place with "correct" key. But, it's just saying it detects key, nothing but the car running really confirms it's the right key.
As for the anti theft light, I don't have a working light in the instrument panel. There may be one in there. If so it's not working at all. Nothing flashes. No theft light shows when key is turned on prior to trying to start.
I have fuel pedal on the way. I'll see if I can find anyone around here that can look into the key programming and make sure the PCM is working.
Thanks for everyone's assistance here. I really appreciate it!