The W-Washer pump itself is a two wire device so if it works one way, then IT SHOULD work in reverse too - because the system it gets power from is DC - so to make it's motor run the other way to make the squirt-squirt work in another direction - that motor assembly needs to have it's tubes hooked up and not plugged and since the wiring is working one way, (to the rear) the switch does it's best to reverse the POLARITY of those wires to reverse the motor to work the valve and force the fluid to go out the other hose on the opposite side of this valve. Your front nozzles.
The system uses two hoses and a valve outlet of two ports. The motor works in both directions of polarity with that polarity reversal the SWITCH does to reverse the leads to the Washer pump to make it work the opposite direction - did you listen to hear the motor run?
IF...
- - it's the motor is not running - the problem is at the switch (the valve is mechanical and is in the motor housing but if it's plugged the motor would still run - even to the front hose outlet). No noise ? Then check the switch - it can break its' connections via it's own housing and press switch. The lever has a push switch and a "pull" switch which all this motion does is force the switches own housing cam to move the contacts to reverse the polarity of the motor.
- No noise means the wiper arm switch CAM is broken and you'll have to take apart the steering wheel to get at the console switch to replace it.
- If you hear noise- let it run a second or two - or even longer - to find a "wet spot" on the floor where the fluid drips as it will drain out of the break in the hose. Then simply fix the leak - replace the hose.
- IF you hear noise and can't find the drip or evidence of a break - pop open the hood (bonnet or front cover - whatever it may be called) and locate Fuse block/Air filter housing and Windshield Washer container - in the USA it is on the Drivers side - right next to it are a set of hoses.
- You may need to disconnect and remove the Headlamp assembly to obtain access to this area to even find the hoses.
- It would need to be done if the hoses are cracked lines are pinched or the housing is broken.
- There are two hoses that leave the Windshield washer housing - they go up along the pillar. Front one branches off to the bonnet's hinge for that side of the car then routes thru a set of clips to the front windshield washer nozzles.
- One set goes thru the top liner and crash bar to get to the rear washer nozzle - the other stays within the front hood.
If you're willing to follow me here, I have removed my rear wiper arm and motor assembly because I got tired of the arm itself - getting in the way. I removed - (removed two screws on the upper brake light pillar sides) and pried off - the rear hatch interior trim panel and removed the motor to prevent me from flipping the switch forward or backwards forcing the arm to scrape scrape (possibly scratch) the dry rear window. Plugged the hole with a simple cap to finish the job.
I then went back to those two hoses - remove the hose butt connector that goes up the inner A-pillar (the front has one too - this may have broken at this joint and where y
The W-Washer pump itself is a two wire device so if it works one way, then IT SHOULD work in reverse too - because the system it gets power from is DC - so to make it's motor run the other way to make the squirt-squirt work in another direction - that motor assembly needs to have it's tubes hooked up and not plugged and since the wiring is working one way, (to the rear) the switch does it's best to reverse the POLARITY of those wires to reverse the motor to work the valve and force the fluid to go out the other hose on the opposite side of this valve. Your front nozzles.
The system uses two hoses and a valve outlet of two ports. The motor works in both directions of polarity with that polarity reversal the SWITCH does to reverse the leads to the Washer pump to make it work the opposite direction - did you listen to hear the motor run?
IF...
- - it's the motor is not running - the problem is at the switch (the valve is mechanical and is in the motor housing but if it's plugged the motor would still run - even to the front hose outlet). No noise ? Then check the switch - it can break its' connections via it's own housing and press switch. The lever has a push switch and a "pull" switch which all this motion does is force the switches own housing cam to move the contacts to reverse the polarity of the motor.
- No noise means the wiper arm switch CAM is broken and you'll have to take apart the steering wheel to get at the console switch to replace it.
- If you hear noise- let it run a second or two - or even longer - to find a "wet spot" on the floor where the fluid drips as it will drain out of the break in the hose. Then simply fix the leak - replace the hose.
- IF you hear noise and can't find the drip or evidence of a break - pop open the hood (bonnet or front cover - whatever it may be called) and locate Fuse block/Air filter housing and Windshield Washer container - in the USA it is on the Drivers side - right next to it are a set of hoses.
- You may need to disconnect and remove the Headlamp assembly to obtain access to this area to even find the hoses.
- It would need to be done if the hoses are cracked lines are pinched or the housing is broken.
- There are two hoses that leave the Windshield washer housing - they go up along the pillar. Front one branches off to the bonnet's hinge for that side of the car then routes thru a set of clips to the front windshield washer nozzles.
- One set goes thru the top liner and crash bar to get to the rear washer nozzle - the other stays within the front hood.
If you're willing to follow me here, I have removed my rear wiper arm and motor assembly because I got tired of the arm itself - getting in the way. I removed - (removed two screws on the upper brake light pillar sides) and pried off - the rear hatch interior trim panel and removed the motor to prevent me from flipping the switch forward or backwards forcing the arm to scrape scrape (possibly scratch) the dry rear window. Plugged the hole with a simple cap to finish the job.
I then went back to those two hoses - remove the hose butt connector that goes up the inner A-pillar (the front has one too - this may have broken at this joint and where your "plug" or leak is at - is where it's broken) - to put in an angled tee fitting to force both outputs into one hose - the front ones and just use whatever would work in the moment to clear the front windshield and just flicked the Wiper arm for the front to clear the spray once done - a lot faster than remembering which direction to flip or button to push to make it work.
To the Moderator, if you need to relocate this thread to make it more useful - go ahead - no issues here - just hope this helps someone in the future.
our "plug" or leak is at - is where it's broken) - to put in an angled tee fitting to force both outputs into one hose - the front ones and just use whatever would work in the moment to clear the front windshield and just flicked the Wiper arm for the front to clear the spray once done - a lot faster than remembering which direction to flip or button to push to make it work.
To the Moderator, if you need to relocate this thread to make it more useful - go ahead - no issues here - just hope this helps someone in the future.
