Rear Motor Mount for DCT

FiEscort

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2017 Ford Fiesta S 1998 Ford ZX2
#1
There is finally an aftermarket RMM available for the DCT equipped Fiesta! I have been driving with the prototype for one week now. I have the 70A RMM. Light acceleration and deceleration, including braking to a complete stop, is so smooth now. Heavy throttle acceleration and upshifting/downshifting is crisp. The engine is more stable throughout the entire driving experience. NVH has barely changed. There is a very slight vibration in the steering wheel and side mirror, but is barely noticeable (I have driven extensively with the AC on). Noise has remained the same, although the exhaust is already noisy so I couldn't tell any difference. Lastly, the motor mount itself is really nice looking and the welds are of great quality. I highly recommend this mod to all DCT owners out there. https://store.awrracing.com/2011-2019-1-6l-fiesta-rear-motor-mount-s-se-ses-sel-titanium-models

AWR RMM on top row and stock on bottom row.
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#2
You have the 70 durometer version. Could you get them to let you try an 88 duromter?
I also noticed that they sell a RH motor mount, also with four bushing hardness choices.
That DCT lower mount might be nice to get for my project hatchback.
 
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FiEscort

FiEscort

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2017 Ford Fiesta S 1998 Ford ZX2
Thread Starter #4
You have the 70 durometer version. Could you get them to let you try an 88 duromter?
I also noticed that they sell a RH motor mount, also with four bushing hardness choices.
That DCT lower mount might be nice to get for my project hatchback.
I can order an 88 one but wouldn't be able to try it for free. I would think that 88 would be fine if its going on an autocross/track Fiesta. For perspective, I would say that the Energy Suspension rear motor mount inserts on my ZX2 results in about 3xs more vibration. Be aware that this RMM is for a DCT. I am not certain but I believe the manual base Fiesta motor mounts use the ST versions offered by AWR racing.
 
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#5
Ok. I've got the same inserts on my ZX2 lower mounts. So, in your opinion the Energy inserts in the zx are way more harsh than the upgrade 70 durometer mount in your Fiesta?
My project hatchback has the DPS6. I would have preferred a manual transmission. But this one became available at a very low price.
 
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FiEscort

FiEscort

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2017 Ford Fiesta S 1998 Ford ZX2
Thread Starter #6
Ok. I've got the same inserts on my ZX2 lower mounts. So, in your opinion the Energy inserts in the zx are way more harsh than the upgrade 70 durometer mount in your Fiesta?
My project hatchback has the DPS6. I would have preferred a manual transmission. But this one became available at a very low price.
Yes, the vibration in the ZX2 from the ES inserts are harsher, particularly during idle. Oh okay, well this would be a great addition to your project car. Not sure which durometer would be your preference though.
 
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#7
Yes, the vibration in the ZX2 from the ES inserts are harsher, particularly during idle. Oh okay, well this would be a great addition to your project car. Not sure which durometer would be your preference though.
I guess, after thinking about it, what im really looking for is "firmer engagement" into reverse and drive. The powershift feels mushy on engagement. The DPS6 in my car is a rebuilt unit from late 2016
 
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FiEscort

FiEscort

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Thread Starter #8
I guess, after thinking about it, what im really looking for is "firmer engagement" into reverse and drive. The powershift feels mushy on engagement. The DPS6 in my car is a rebuilt unit from late 2016
I would say yes. Overall, it has improved all areas.
 
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What I Drive
'17 ST
#9
My car's a manual, but I felt more than one difference with an upgraded RMM. Most people on the ST forum will tell you that it's the first mod you should do.
First, the stock one is really soft. Overly so, even for base model automatics. It's about zeroing NVH in brand new cars. I certainly remember how smooth the car felt when it was new. NO vibration, through the wheel, the seat, the shift knob. None. Ford spent a lot of time and money making the Fiesta a quiet, comfortable car for its size and price point.

After about 10,000 miles, the NVH was still plush as a Cadillac. I also had to give it a few milliseconds between shifts, especially when giving it the beans, because it's way too soft for any spirited driving. It's made of rubber. It's just going to get softer and softer, until there's too much play for anything but super smooth mileage jockey-type driving. Not my jam.

Changing it benefitted my car in more than one way.
First, of course, it reduced engine movement in relation to the drivetrain. I can go for the next gear sooner, and snick it right in there, losing fewer rpms between shifts.
Second, it reduced wheel hop when I'm really getting on it. My car always struggles to get grip when I pin it in 1st or 2nd, and spins in 3rd a little, too. It's the curse of FWD cars. They just aren't drag racers. They're handlers.
Third, it reduced torque steer. My car makes over 240 tq, and it starts early in the rev range. This is more noticeable when stomping on it, because it tracks straighter, and it also helps when I'm shifting in corners and such, but it's there all the time.

It didn't eliminate wheel hop and torque steer, but the difference is major. It just puts the power down better, in every way. The car is much more confident in itself. 0-60 is definitely improved with that single part.

The only downside is that you don't have that perfectly dead-feeling NVH. There is a tiny bit of vibration through the wheel at idle, and it's more noticeable with the AC on. There's a little between 1000-1100 taking off in 1st gear. When I'm rolling, it's not noticeable at all.

Let me put it in perspective. If I start the car, I have to really try to notice it to notice vibration. It smooths out a little after a thousand miles or so, too.
Any vibrations I can feel when I'm stopped are completely cancelled out if I'm stopped next to a semi, or another big diesel. Or if someone's cranking their big stereo, or there's some other noise.
Other vehicles vibrate my car more than my car ever will, even if I'm playing music and have it turned up. When I'm at speed, there's no change.

Your car is a lot different, but there would still be a difference in power to the ground. The added benefit is it's a more durable part, and you could take it off and sell it if your car gets ruined.
If I had a DCT Fiesta, I'd get this before an intake or exhaust. Best mod there is, in terms of bang for the buck. It's even made well. I'm glad they're available.
 
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#10
It's sometimes difficult to quantify an operational condition. Especially when the issues have been evolving for some extensive period of time.
I can understand why the engineers chose ''soft engagement" for reverse. Most people dont want their car to bang or clunk into a gear mode.
DPS6 tranaxles have always seemed strange to me in regards to their shifting behaviours and feel.
I rented a Powrrshift fiesta shortly after they became available in rental fleets.
I prepared one identically to my m\t Fiesta (light wheels, shaved Dunlop Direzza tires, front asb links and bushings, FRP lowering kit and rear axle beam stiffener bar plus identical lightweighting steps).
I conscripted a couple of buddies who are national level champion SCCA autocross drivers to drive the cars at a double regional (IE: huge event and course!)
Neither one of the guys exactly liked the Powershift Fiesta, but it was the faster of the two in either drivers hands! They were both shocked about that outcome. We concluded that the Powershift had a better final drive ratio on a big autocross course.
 


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