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Lost the stud to my stripped lug nut and can't get it out the rest of the way.

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Rapid City
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SD
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What I Drive
2013 SE Ford Fiest 4 door Hatchback
#1
because of no stud any longer any easy or easyish repairs for this issue without having to take it into the mechanic ? Thanks. The lug nut is more then loose.
 

Handy Andy

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#2
IF you can get the wheel off, the stud is pounded out - you can use the hammer and hit it from the front to push it back behind the hub.

1660429557723.png

Sometimes, that means some disassembly is required. You have to remove the wheel, the brake caliper or drum - to expose the hub so you can even get at it. IT may not be necessary to remove the caliper or drum - but be ready to create room if needed to get more leverage and clearance to get at that stud.

BE8Z-1107-A is the Ford Part number for the replacement stud.
1660430161667.png

Kind of looks like this - best to get a nut that fits too...
1660429828894.png

1660441883388.png

The new stud is inserted and pulled thru to seat it - with reservations (ugh!)
  • - a set of washers or a nut slightly larger than the stud are used to force the stud to seat into the hub with the wheel nut used as the means to provide the threading force to pull the stud thru the hub from the back - to let the knurl edge bite into the hub and hold it in place once it is seated.
    • a new wheel nut is best used to tighten the stud to the hub, (using those washers or nut as a spacer) to "seat" the new stud.
  • It has a knurl area that "bites into" the hub to hold it in place and keeps it from turning
    • - the Knurl diameter is important to know
    • - for if the old stud damaged the hub, the new replacement might not fit snugly, it'll be too loose to hold within the hub and may not help you in getting the wheel off later
      • - it will just sit and spin and you'll have an even bigger mess trying to remove the wheel later.
  • - It's important that, you'll have to research the dimensions and find a bolt with a knurled edge of larger diameter to fit and seat into the hole if the old stud damaged or reamed out the hole to a larger diameter.
  • It's not out of the question with older cars with old studs - that the hub is replaced as a new unit, that way the studs and bearings in the hub are all new and you don't have to worry about broken studs and bearing failures.
 
Last edited:
OP
S
Messages
59
Likes
14
City
Rapid City
State
SD
Country
United States
What I Drive
2013 SE Ford Fiest 4 door Hatchback
Thread Starter #3
IF you can get the wheel off, the stud is pounded out - you can use the hammer and hit it from the front to push it back behind the hub.

View attachment 6835

Sometimes, that means some disassembly is required. You have to remove the wheel, the brake caliper or drum - to expose the hub so you can even get at it. IT may not be necessary to remove the caliper or drum - but be ready to create room if needed to get more leverage and clearance to get at that stud.

BE8Z-1107-A is the Ford Part number for the replacement stud.

Kind of looks like this - best to get a nut that fits too...

The new stud is inserted and pulled thru to seat it - with reservations (ugh!)
  • - a set of washers or a nut slightly larger than the stud are used to force the stud to seat into the hub with the wheel nut used as the means to provide the threading force to pull the stud thru the hub from the back - to let the knurl edge bite into the hub and hold it in place once it is seated.
    • a new wheel nut is best used to tighten the stud to the hub, (using those washers or nut as a spacer) to "seat" the new stud.
  • It has a knurl area that "bites into" the hub to hold it in place and keeps it from turning
    • - the Knurl diameter is important to know
    • - for if the old stud damaged the hub, the new replacement might not fit snugly, it'll be too loose to hold within the hub and may not help you in getting the wheel off later
      • - it will just sit and spin and you'll have an even bigger mess trying to remove the wheel later.
  • - It's important that, you'll have to research the dimensions and find a bolt with a knurled edge of larger diameter to fit and seat into the hole if the old stud damaged or reamed out the hole to a larger diameter.
  • It's not out of the question with older cars with old studs - that the hub is replaced as a new unit, that way the studs and bearings in the hub are all new and you don't have to worry about broken studs and bearing failures.
3 out of all 4 lug nuts can be removed and the last 1 is stuck on so the wheel does come off some but not all the way off obviously because of this I did think about striking the wheel with a mini sledge hammer while the wheel is still hanging on by a thread would this pop off that non studded missing studded lug nut ? The wheel when removing 3 of 4 lug nuts that can come off with ease then the last stuck on lug nut can I strike this wheel with the mini sledge hammer would this pop it off with the wheel hanging slightly on still ? Thanks.
 

Handy Andy

Well-Liked Member
Premium Account
Messages
1,455
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City
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2018 Ford Fiesta SE HB
#4
Try not to do that - use the wheel with a lever - like a pry bar or crowbar.

The prybar or crowbar is placed Behind the wheel, against the hub - to pull the stud and nut out towards the hub - to pull the stud into the hole it is in, to hopefully find enough knurl of that stud to hold it and let you turn the nut off the stud to remove the nut so the wheel can be pulled off.
 
Last edited:


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