Interior light fuse location

[Paulryan98]

Hi the interiot bulb in my ford fiesta mk7 isnt working changed bulb still isnt working anyone know what fuse i need to change

 

[scotman]

Are you concerned with the center “dome” lamp bulb or the outer “map light” LED?
You might want to pull the entire map light housing down and inspect the contacts for the bulb. Did you check the electrical continuity with a test light?

 

[Handy Andy]

I see an orange light indicator - showing on, but not sure if that is the Enabled or Disabled MAP-lamp function.

So there is power.

But if the key needs to be in and the engine started - that usually means the system detected a fault and needs that to be cleared. A Battery Save (Monitor) function so the system doesn't leave you with a dead battery.

Start your car, Check your dashboard, see if Door Ajar light symbol is lit.

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Now, to help the CENTER light is a filament - which, to the battery monitor system - shows itself as a short or a drain if it's left on - door ajar - stuff like that. So if that was on, see your overhead console switch condition (that center one - Off - Door, or ON) - if it's been set to stay on, it may need to have the engine started and all the doors shut with that center switch all the way off to help reset the battery saver function.

Which if you do have a battery monitor - you may have two - one is the BODY control module - which powers the interior lights - it supplies the power and dims them - but another type of monitor is on the negative battery cable and is more for the ST models which you have have a "module" inline at the battery ground cable - as a security feature.


You may have two ground cables - or a funky looking "Y" bracket that is on the Ground negative battery post. which is this monitor and disable security feature

IF the Body control module is healthy - you'd be able to start the car and the system should automatically reset once all the conditions that caused the fault are cleared.

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Otherwise, get a new bulb for the center lamp - if it still does not work, it may be from the heat from the lamp may have moved the contacts - they are spring loaded and can develop a memory - so the spring tension of the bulbs contacts and the heat - softened the plastic and it's socket contacts may need to be re-bent to make contact - that is if the battery monitor did not shut down the system - or you were driving with the center console lamp on too long and either bulb is burned out, or you need to reset the contacts to make contact with the new bulb to complete the circuit.

Else that lamp assembly will have to be un-screwed and unbolted so you can inspect the wiring and connector.

To do that, (at least with yours - not all are done this way) requires a simple small tipped flat-blade screwdriver - or eyeglass fixer - and gently pry the tabs in the square holes to help release the housing - but you'll have to apply pinch pressure to help pry the housing away from it's seat and keep the tabs from re-engaging - then the housing should be able to pulled out and flipped to inspect the wiring.

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[Paulryan98]

Are you concerned with the center “dome” lamp bulb or the outer “map light” LED?
You might want to pull the entire map light housing down and inspect the contacts for the bulb. Did you check the electrical continuity with a test light?

The middle dome light

 

[Handy Andy]

Look in the above photo of your front lamp - that center dome light has two contacts you can see - plus the orange light showing you have power to that lamp assembly - so for it not to be on, but the orange light is, and you've replaced the bulb twice - the housing for that middle dome light is bad or you'll have to try and re-bend the contacts in that to make the new bulb work..

You can take apart the housing and see if the contacts can be re-bent to make contact - else the lamp - if you leave the ignition on for a short time - it would sense the demand for it and turn the light on.

Since it's not doing that - you'll have to take that lamp assembly out and inspect it or have the dealership look at it - but that would be an expensive idea. So to try and help you save money - I've given you tips in the post above as to how you can take (or gently pry) the housing out and remove the connector and inspect that assembly.

IF you can,. check the fuse LOCATION 1 in the passenger fuse box, you'll have to remove the glove box door so might need to take the time and locate your manual for that car - but the fuse box is behind that glove compartment door.

7.5 amp fuse - will be Dark AMBER in color - not yellow. 7.5 will be stamped on it.

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