Fuel problems

[Missty]

hope someone kind can give a bit of advice have a fiesta 1.6 tdci on a 09 plate never had a moments problem, until it started to just cut out. Crazy things was if I pulled fuses out and put them back in would start back up and go for days with no issues, but got worse until that didn't work no more had fuel filter changed and new glow plugs still no difference, had it plugged in and have had code P0183. P0251. P0253. P02E1 ...any assistance would be most appreciated thank you

 

[scotman]

hope someone kind can give a bit of advice have a fiesta 1.6 tdci on a 09 plate never had a moments problem, until it started to just cut out. Crazy things was if I pulled fuses out and put them back in would start back up and go for days with no issues, but got worse until that didn't work no more had fuel filter changed and new glow plugs still no difference, had it plugged in and have had code P0183. P0251. P0253. P02E1 ...any assistance would be most appreciated thank you

Hello. This forum is aimed primarily at the North American version of the Fiesta. As such, we do not have a diesel engine version like yours here in the States.
In general terms,i would say that you can see that the issue is electrical in nature. My guess is that there are some faults in the harness or ground connections. You must have been getting one or more warning lamps for some time now. Possibly some that would just appear on the cluster and then magically disappear at next key on.
Those MIL are your mechanics road map to the problem areas. It does not mean that the components on those circuits are bad. It means that the signals from or to them are somehow compromised or interrupted.
I can only recommend that you find a competent technician who knows how to use a multi ranging voltmeter and allow him around three hours to Ohm out the affected circuits and determine the best path forward.

 

[Missty]

Hello. This forum is aimed primarily at the North American version of the Fiesta. As such, we do not have a diesel engine version like yours here in the States.
In general terms,i would say that you can see that the issue is electrical in nature. My guess is that there are some faults in the harness or ground connections. You must have been getting one or more warning lamps for some time now. Possibly some that would just appear on the cluster and then magically disappear at next key on.
Those MIL are your mechanics road map to the problem areas. It does not mean that the components on those circuits are bad. It means that the signals from or to them are somehow compromised or interrupted.
I can only recommend that you find a competent technician who knows how to use a multi ranging voltmeter and allow him around three hours to Ohm out the affected circuits and determine the best path forward.

Posted out of desperation to be honest. And no never had a

Hello. This forum is aimed primarily at the North American version of the Fiesta. As such, we do not have a diesel engine version like yours here in the States.
In general terms,i would say that you can see that the issue is electrical in nature. My guess is that there are some faults in the harness or ground connections. You must have been getting one or more warning lamps for some time now. Possibly some that would just appear on the cluster and then magically disappear at next key on.
Those MIL are your mechanics road map to the problem areas. It does not mean that the components on those circuits are bad. It means that the signals from or to them are somehow compromised or interrupted.
I can only recommend that you find a competent technician who knows how to use a multi ranging voltmeter and allow him around three hours to Ohm out the affected circuits and determine the best path forward.

.... thanks for your reply and was posted out of desperation to be truthful. And no never had a warning light even with my cheap scanner never showed no code, until it went to a garage. But thank you for yr advice very much appreciated

 

[Handy Andy]

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Hmm...These are serious, as in main fails - since they seem to have a common root of Electrical.

Better start taking a look into the Battery and it's main RED terminal - it has several connectors there that branch off into their various subsystems - these seem to point towards fuel rail and pressure monitoring and pump. So if something failed in the main relay block that feeds this section (like a corroded contact) or broken connector - this action of pulling fuses seems to "cure the problem" then it comes back in spades, this may mean a cracked fusebox, loose harness connector onto a broken connector onto a corroded wiring causing intermittent shorts or open circuit.

This may mean a more serious trip into a shop - a shop that knows what they're doing - to get this problem resolved.

​

 

[Missty]

View attachment 4735
View attachment 4736

View attachment 4737

View attachment 4738
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Hmm...These are serious, as in main fails - since they seem to have a common root of Electrical.

Better start taking a look into the Battery and it's main RED terminal - it has several connectors there that branch off into their various subsystems - these seem to point towards fuel rail and pressure monitoring and pump. So if something failed in the main relay block that feeds this section (like a corroded contact) or broken connector - this action of pulling fuses seems to "cure the problem" then it comes back in spades, this may mean a cracked fusebox, loose harness connector onto a broken connector onto a corroded wiring causing intermittent shorts or open circuit.

This may mean a more serious trip into a shop - a shop that knows what they're doing - to get this problem resolved.

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Thank you for taking the time to reply ...Garage I took it to wanted to change the pump . Then possibly the ecu. All iv spoke to don't want to get involved with wiring. The red terminal connector you mentioned is all intact. Iv been all along the harness pulling connectors off and checking wires and do seem OK. Fuse box looks like someone has been in there in the past.. car wants to start but won't. Where a few weeks ago it would after multiple turns

 

[Handy Andy]

Can you take out those relays and have them tested?

Why? Well if they are OEM - nothing lasts forever, so my thoughts are to take a marker and number them, so you can swap out different relays to the ones they fit the outline to and try to see if the condition can be corrected. This method you swap a relay with another one from another circuit - one swap at a time to see if you can recover the engine and get it started and run - the relay you hold in your hand then, is the bad one.

Relays can fail from long term use. Be sure to check the numbers on the relay - so you aren't swapping one with a reversed wiring or terminal.

However in swapping you'll lose one circuit relay operation like Heater or Door locks AC fan or Radiator cooling fan, for if the relay is bad, you can at least limp in the car to buy a new relay to install in the one that's empty.

To helps to take a good quality picture of ALL the fuse box, relays, and Fuses, showing relays are numbered and installed at their locations, get a good focused photo to obtain the best detail. This way you can revert back to original setup if you get lost.

It can help you sort out the bad relay (or more) from the others.

 

[Handy Andy]

If that doesn't solve the problem, I know several other places that if neglected, can leave you stranded.

One being Chassis grounds.

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If any of those broke loose, or corroded away, due to age, can become your symptom!

The "gold color" is from my efforts of using a Copper-based - anti seize compound applied sandwiched under, by bolted connector, back on and then coated with it again - to preserve the connection point as much as possible.


They are located in various locations around the engine compartment and on the engine - several right by the battery and others by the Right Side Headlamp just under it's housing meaning you have to remove the headlamp to get at it..

 

[Missty]

If that doesn't solve the problem, I know several other places that if neglected, can leave you stranded.

One being Chassis grounds.

View attachment 4745​

If any of those broke loose, or corroded away, due to age, can become your symptom!

The "gold color" is from my efforts of using a Copper-based - anti seize compound applied sandwiched under, by bolted connector, back on and then coated with it again - to preserve the connection point as much as possible.


They are located in various locations around the engine compartment and on the engine - several right by the battery and others by the Right Side Headlamp just under it's housing meaning you have to remvoe the headlamp to get at it..

Thanks again. Not able to have them checked, but have swapped them around but no difference. I have checked the grounds what I found but still no difference

 

[Handy Andy]

These grounds are also located in the INTERIOR part of the vehicle, check under the carpet by the Passenger seat and Drivers seat - just at the edge where the carpet meets the trim - there is a rise in the brace by the bolts used to hold the seats, under that runner brace is where these grounds meet up for various systems inside the car.

 

[Missty]

These grounds are also located in the INTERIOR part of the vehicle, check under the carpet by the Passenger seat and Drivers seat - just at the edge where the carpet meets the trim - there is a rise in the brace by the bolts used to hold the seats, under that runner brace is where these grounds meet up for various systems inside the car.

Ok I will check those tomorrow. Hopefully report back with good news. Thank you

 

[Missty]

Checked all u have suggested and all that I can see is OK have tried to add a few extra grounds but still no good.. many thanks for your help