Which side of the car was the Wheel bearing replaced, or were both done at the same time?
Reasoning is - the ABS sensors and their timing - when driving, are used to determine speed and if any wheel "Slips" too far out of a widow of expected turning radius and or unexpected driving conditions it is a lead-in condition to the ABS or TRAC control preparations - it even helps during driveoff from dead stop moment.
Had this occur on a rear wheel when I did a check on the hub and brakes - accidentally took off a bolt and boy did the dash light up - no more than 10 feet out of the Garage and you're left thinking the "Mr. Phelps - and 'This Message (sub-in
Vehicle) will self-destruct in 5 seconds'" moment - coasting down the driveway - do I bail or just ride this one out?
It uses all of them to determine - so if one isn't working - you'll certainly know, see and hear about it from the dashboard tell-tale light and Ding-Dong show...
If it were me? IF the Rear wheel hub was done, then remove - disconnect ground and block wheels and lift up the car - you'll have to find the rear Hub sensors - and if the hub was not seated properly - you'll have to do this whole mess repeatedly until the clearance between the hub and that speed sensor are "close enough" to each other to reset the mess in the dashboard.
The hubs themselves have a opening where the ABS/SPEEDO sensor goes in, if the sensor is not in far enough - the system can't tell if the wheel is spinning or not.
This kinda' sounds like something out of a bad alignment - where the shop might not have told you all the details and something got twisted - so they tried to untwist it in telling their side, of their story.
It's not uncommon to have the rear brake plate - kinda' needing to be re-centered or remove the shims used to offset an alignment "shim" clearance - to make the wheels roll straight or somehow fix a drift problem - at least not that way - the sensor is pretty intolerant of too much clearance between it and the hub. IF even one sensor is too far out of tolerance and clearance - the whole car suffers - It sees 3 but counts 4 - so 75% of the vehicles'' systems appear working - sort of moment.
So this means a full pull out of the sensor and make sure the bolt to holes clearance is good and that you don't have any debris in the hole - even a rust flake - these things work on optics and fields - so the thingy - if it's view of the hub spinner is blocked - it's blind and the vehicles plays that Taped Message for Mr. Phelps all over again...
Now there is a cabling harness by the fuel tank that if it' got tugged a wee bit too hard, you might need to reseat connectors' embedded in the harness along the route of where the pull / yank / tear happened - and see if the wiring harness got dislodged - if even the Ground wire tie off or any of those zip tied mounting tabs both types of fasteners - if pulled - that shows a lot of force used on the harness so it will need some TLC and someone experienced to look at it.
If you're able to drive it, the fuel system is working so it wouldn't start otherwise - so the Fuel sender or some type of mess might also have occurred above in the rear seat area...that bench seat. Might need to look in there too...
