It may not be on the engine side...
When you hit the curb - the shock event transfers into the steering - if you know NASCAR - when drivers are hitting other vehicles or the wall, they're instructed to release-let go of the wheel, so the force of the impact doesn't break their arms or worse.
That brings us to the EPAS system - located underneath and behind the steering wheel in the column.
When that gets whacked - it's not cheap to repair or replace.
I've already had my share of excitement with this thing...
To help elaborate - or you can skip this...
Figure 7 is the rod that turns the pinion gear of that rack - but it requires the boost from Figure 1 which contains the toothed gear sensor and the motor to bump the steering (reduction gear and logic units are not going to get discussed but the Figure 6 is the buss for the Electrical power to this thing.)
One thing I wanted to point out, is the extension rod has a sleeve that makes it slide up and down that gear-like shaft (tongue and groove teeth mesh together and allow Figure 7 to change its LENGTH without Freeplay)
What I wanted to bring to your attention is the use of FIG 1s' folded curl piece that installs this onto a crossmember - just under the pods - it uses two bolts and slides - if these bolts are too loose the steering wheel can shudder and seem loose. But if it's too tight then you may have problems trying to adjust the column to suit the users' needs and ride comfort.
One main problem I was having was with the steering wheel bounce - or a rattle - which was caused by those loose bolts.
I removed the trim that tucks under the pods console (dashboard) and it will reveal where that fork slide "rides" on the crossmember and the bolts hold this wheel assembly to the crossmember.
Part of my problem with steering and alignment was due to this assembly - "vibrating" and when you hit bumps - you get a pull or tug on the steering wheel from that freeplay or shake - in some instances that shake is enough to make the vehicle steer in a specific direction.
To find out what I'm talking about - remove that trim piece - the cover to the steering console just behind the steering wheel in the column. You'll see those two bolts.
Release the lever that helps you adjust the tilt and distance (throw) you see the console may drop - but take the bottom half of your steering column where you put in your ignition key and see if it can rotate or twist - if it does - those bolts are too loose you might want to tighten them up.
How does this affect the steering? You just found a Freeplay and loose vibration that the column itself goes thru that is passed into the steering wheel and the clockspring inside is not able to keep the wheel centered - from a Coriolis effect where the wheel will try to balance itself to a natural redundant vibration "antinode" to a "sweet spot" (node) caused by that rack and pinion gearing transferring the road vibration into this system (Like a standing wave) - that column shaft and the Freeplay in the bolts against the brake that keeps the wheel and column in position - that whole thing tends to want to find it's own rest from the vibrations that the tires and suspension impose on the system - that turns into a gentle tug of the wheel usually to the left - because of the crown of the road tends to want to make the vehicle wander to the right as it tries to find it's balance point (Center of gravity)
To me the bump steer problem is really an illusion of how you need to keep correcting the vehicle - for when you place a bubble level onto the top of the airbag part of this system and just drive - a properly aligned car will always drive straight and the bubble will show level on a straight road, but the roughness of the road surface generates the vibrations that transfer into the column and if there is too much slack for the bolts - the brake may hold it in place but the vibration itself causes the feel in the wheel of that drift to the side of the height of the crown.
