Brain tickler about engine temps.

[PeraltaSpidey]

Hello all.
Not necessarily a problem (I don't think) but wondering if your fiestas do the same.
This is the first summer I've had the fiesta so it's all things I'm beginning to notice. But recently, 8 in the morning (clocking about 17°C) it'll take about 3 minutes to get to the 4 temp bars. That's will normal 30mph/ slower driving.

However, I noticed that when I leave the car at work for the day (our carpark is smack bag in direct sunlight) and restart it at around 4.00 (clocking around 30 ° C), one bar comes up instantly and we're on 4 bars in no more than 1.5 minutes. It's very quick! Never overheating though, it did overheat once last month. But that was because the fan had given up on life. So that needed replacing.

Is everyone else's this fast to heat up? I didn't know the outside temp had this much of an effect!

 

[scotman]

Seams to comport with how both of my Fiestas act. I don't know how old your Fiesta is, but i would strongly recommend that you not have much trust in the coolant reservoir if you know that it is over three years old!
When they burst, it probably won't be at a convenient time or place.

 

[PeraltaSpidey]

Seams to comport with how both of my Fiestas act. I don't know how old your Fiesta is, but i would strongly recommend that you not have much trust in the coolant reservoir if you know that it is over three years old!
When they burst, it probably won't be at a convenient time or place.

It's a 2014 zetec! Yeah, the roadside assistance said the bottle was beginning to wear when the fan went, but the garage said it was fine. So I'm keeping my eyes on it!

 

[scotman]

If it's over three years old get rid of it. When they blow it's very messy, inconvenient and potentially expensive.

 

[PeraltaSpidey]

If it's over three years old get rid of it. When they blow it's very messy, inconvenient and potentially expensive.

Not sure how old the tank is to be honest. But eurgh whyyyyyy do they make things last such little time. It's so silly!

 

[Handy Andy]

There are other things you should look over...

That cap on the bottle, one of the reasons for the "eruption". Other things to consider before this occurs, or burst, is from the weep hole and the side plugs it uses, the side plugs on the tank are for the burp tube, the main coolant bubble and level (small pockets always occur, so the larger hose help burp the radiator as well as show level) help to provide some way to remove the air pockets and gasses from the acceleration moments that pass by the oil and the gasket in the head when pressures are high.


I think you really should occasionally loosen the cap, take it off and look down in there to make sure the weep hole that is behind and in the "flange" portion of the cap - is clear - so air, fluid and steam can blow out.

It's like checking oil, if you don't you can get stranded. So the cap has a "click" moment when it properly seated - so loosen inspect retighten and turn until it "meets the detent" and this helps the valve also from keeping pressures from going too high from LACK of ability to release - it's stuck shut in goo and sugar from the glycol that freezes it in place.

 

[PeraltaSpidey]

There are other things you should look over...

That cap on the bottle, one of the reasons for the "eruption". Other things to consider before this occurs, or burst, is from the weep hole and the side plugs it uses, the side plugs on the tank are for the burp tube, the main coolant bubble and level (small pockets always occur, so the larger hose help burp the radiator as well as show level) help to provide some way to remove the air pockets and gasses from the acieration moments that pass by the oil and the gasket in the head when pressures are high.

View attachment 6735
I think you really should occasionally loosen the cap, take it off and look down in there to make sure the weep hole that is behind and in the "flange" portion of the cap - is clear - so air, fluid and steam can blow out.

It's like checking oil, if you don't you can get stranded. So the cap has a "click" moment when it properly seated - so loosen inspect retighten and turn until it "meets the detent" and this helps the valve also from keeping pressures from going too high from LACK of ability to release - it's stuck shut in goo and sugar from the glycol that freezes it in place.

Yes, my dad mentioned this to me many a year ago, so I make sure I do it regularly. Still clicking and all that good stuff. To be honest, though, since taking it to the garage and them telling me it's absolutely fine at the moment, I've paid it no mind for a bit. I'll just add it to my list of worries hah.

I don't think the tank is the reason for quick engine heat up though? I hope not, I really don't need another garage trip! ( Neither does my bank account).

 

[scotman]

Not sure how old the tank is to be honest. But eurgh whyyyyyy do they make things last such little time. It's so silly!

Get rid of it. I have had these fail because the top split and also had one burst on the side facing the cam belt cover and the last one failed at the neck of the filler cap.
This part is a disaster waiting to happen. The good news is that they are very easy to replace and not expensive! They are, in fact, practically free compared to the cost of hiring a tow truck or a new engine.
If i sound militantly biased against trusting this part it's because i am militantly biased against trusting this part.
I have taken to using a permanent felt tip marker to tattoo the install date on the top of these reservoirs! They are a three years and done maintenance item.

 

[PeraltaSpidey]

Get rid of it. I have had these fail because the top split and also had one burst on the side facing the cam belt cover and the last one failed at the neck of the filler cap.
This part is a disaster waiting to happen. The good news is that they are very easy to replace and not expensive! They are, in fact, practically free compared to the cost of hiring a tow truck or a new engine.
If i sound militantly biased against trusting this part it's because i am militantly biased against trusting this part.
I have taken to using a permanent felt tip marker to tattoo the install date on the top of these reservoirs! They are a three years and done maintenance item.

Hmm thank you. I'll act on that. Wonder if it's covered by my warranty. That'd be handy!

I think I heard my fan for the first time today, too, proving it's been broken since purchase. When I switched off the engine it sounded a bit like a whirr.. like the fan stopping, I likened it to a spaceship or aircraft turning off. Freaked me out for a second! Honestly, so much has gone wrong with this car in the 6 months of owning it, any small noise is enough to prick up my ears!

 

[scotman]

Being aware of the normal noises is smart. The cooling fan should run for around 10 seconds after keyoff. I haven't put a stopwatch to that estimate, but it sounds about right.

 

[Handy Andy]

If yours comes with AC - might want to take a moment (5 minutes really) to rinse out that radiator and condenser, if it has not been done already.

Why?

Car washing only affects the surface, or skin, there's that undercarriage too, but that only does the bottom and rocker panels.

What about the front, your Grille? When air comes in, does it freely go thru both the condenser and radiator? Can you feel heat arriving to your feet when you stand outside the car and the AC and the fan is on?

It should be pulling a lot of air thru into the engine compartment and the only places it can go then, is down and outwards
from the engine - carrying the heat away.

Lift, pop the hood, and watching for fan blades and other debris it may catch and throw at you - look over the fan shroud and you should force water thru the fins and see water spray hit the motor and intake manifold from this - don't worry, it's designed to pull air and dirt - by suction, thru the fins and help provide a path for colling to occur.

Have you even glanced into the grille and shroud to see how your radiator looks - does it look like it got shot at by June bugs, fireflies, rocks and who knows what else?

​

Remember you have two "layers" - one is the AC, the other is for your engine.

If one gets plugged, the other suffers too.

Even the rear fan - it can get debris from the road - a stone or rock will ricochet in and thru the blades - shredding them and banging up your radiator too.

​

So go over the condition of the system - since it is warmer, a good rinse and review of your cooling system is always a wise choice. The time you have spent doing this - can save you lots of $$$ you will be spending later if you did not take the time to do up some preventative maintenance.

 

[PeraltaSpidey]

Being aware of the normal noises is smart. The cooling fan should run for around 10 seconds after keyoff. I haven't put a stopwatch to that estimate, but it sounds about right.

Didn't go for very long at all. Just a neowwmm and done. Enough for me to notice but not long enough for me to really figure it out.

Funnily enough, no noise this morning, but obviously it's nearly half the temp it was yesterday evening!

 

[scotman]

Flushing out the coolers a couple of times per year is not overkill in any way. But, cooling fans and relays can and do fail without any notice as they age. So getting familiar with the sounds of your car when all is well is a good way to catch things when they go wrong. None of that requires much mechanical experience or a four year degree.

 

[gfh77665]

Not to derail the coolant tank discussion, but yes OP, the Fiestas by nature warm up very fast. In our Texas heat, we start with one bar and get to 4 bars very very quickly. Even in our "winter" 50 degree temps (10C) we still reach 4 bars pretty quick, but a minute or two longer than in the summer.