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Bilstein B6 struts and shocks. If you are installing them, post impressions and questions here....

scotman

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#1
I was reading the Bilstein website product description. They state that the B6 is matched to O.E. shock and strut Dimensions. I took that to mean that the valving for the basic Fiesta with normal ride height would differ from the ST version which is slightly lowered. My comparison of the part numbers says nope!
I just wanted to confirm or deny a difference between the two, if any. There is none.
So, those B6 shocks and struts, #22-245199 is Left front. #22-245205 is Right front. #24-239318 is for the rear. Are the correct application for either basic fiesta or ST. If you are planning to install mild lowering coils on your basic fiesta, these should work just fine. They can be considered to be the Bilstein competitor to the Koni STRT.
The rear shocks seem to be averaging $118 each. The front struts averaging $127 each. But shock surplus.com has them available in a pair for $250 bucks. The B6 is a step up from the O.E. replacement B4 and a cut below the premium B8 product. I plan to install a set of these on my 2011 Fiesta Jolly project.


31w6m70+lpL._AC_SX355_.jpg 24-239318_4.jpg
 
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scotman

scotman

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Thread Starter #2
Everyone here who chooses the B6 Bilstein shocks and struts should feel free to post up an impression of the components and discuss your choice of spring sets! This way we can help each other take the guesswork out of what certain choices might result in.
 
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scotman

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Thread Starter #3
Expect delivery of the B6 struts and shocks by Saturday. Not sure which pair of them will show up first because they are coming in from two separate locations. I am trying to chase down the last couple of bits to get it all done quickly.
 
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scotman

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The rear shocks were dropped off at my door this afternoon. I decided to compare these Bilstein to the rear STR.T shocks for firmness effort to compress and the speed of rebound. I will try to do a video as well. The B6 is easily twice as hard to compress as the STR.T! And, the b6 rebounds a full 4 seconds quicker from full compression than the Koni. Too bad the cars these are going on are so different. It would be interesting to run these dampers against each other with a G tech performance meter on board. 20210429_151054.jpg
 
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scotman

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Thread Starter #5
The front struts arrived today. I also picked up the strut bearings. Just waiting for the strut boots and spring insulators now. The rear shocks are assembled and ready to go on the car. 20210503_193735.jpg
 
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Thread Starter #6
Strut boots came in. The O.E. are not available at this time. So i sourced a pair of strut boots from Autoanything.com They are Tough.Country #69127 and cost a little under 20 bucks for a pair, minus the shipping. They appear to be well made and are more than long enough to protect the strut piston and were easy to snugly fit over the strut tube and secure with a zip tie. 20210506_212232.jpg 20210506_213233.jpg
 
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#7
So these don't "funnel out" to fit the upper strut mount?

I wondered about the bearing cup the strut boot and knowing it fits the bottom of the strut - what do you use for the top? That bumper stop?
 
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So these don't "funnel out" to fit the upper strut mount?

I wondered about the bearing cup the strut boot and knowing it fits the bottom of the strut - what do you use for the top? That bumper stop?
I am going to figure that out tonight. This boot is more generous length wise than the O.E. part. It really doesn't need a barbed retainer to keep it located. The bellows will have more than adequate range of motion without stretching. Unlike the original part.
I just put a zip tie on the bottom of it. The large end fit snugly over the provided plastic clip at the top of the strut tube. They dont funnel out at the top. But, i dont think that is a big deal. So, far.
 
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#9
To have the longer bellows is nice, the OEM seems "formed a little short" when it comes to the ease of slipping over the bottom boot to the stab tabs to fit.

But once the OEM bellow is set, it seems to stay ok. It's easy enough for one owner to jack up remove the tire and simply pull down and press into the tabs and set the bellows to seat fully in the bottom pushed onto those tabs.

Thanks for the tip on the "Zip tie" seems right to do just that.

Many Fiestas I've have the luxury of seeing with their front tires off, seem to have loose bellows on the bottom, which to see the techs in the shop ignoring the issue of putting them back on, is one of many reasons I felt the dealership I had purchased from was not truly into "Providing Service to the customer".

Considering the noise or Thunk they make when driving - when loose, I would think more people would have taken it to note - but it doesn't seem that Ford really responds well to this type of careful consideration for the customer.
 
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scotman

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Thread Starter #10
To have the longer bellows is nice, the OEM seems "formed a little short" when it comes to the ease of slipping over the bottom boot to the stab tabs to fit.

But once the OEM bellow is set, it seems to stay ok. It's easy enough for one owner to jack up remove the tire and simply pull down and press into the tabs and set the bellows to seat fully in the bottom pushed onto those tabs.

Thanks for the tip on the "Zip tie" seems right to do just that.

Many Fiestas I've have the luxury of seeing with their front tires off, seem to have loose bellows on the bottom, which to see the techs in the shop ignoring the issue of putting them back on, is one of many reasons I felt the dealership I had purchased from was not truly into "Providing Service to the customer".

Considering the noise or Thunk they make when driving - when loose, I would think more people would have taken it to note - but it doesn't seem that Ford really responds well to this type of careful consideration for the customer.

I think that the general consensus among mechanics is to not mess with things that are not directly related to the area they are punched in on. Also, some of these things can be made worse when messed with. Shock boots dry rot. I have seen plenty of them with multiple cracks and holes.
 
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Thread Starter #11
Well, as usual it's a mixed bag of joy and frustration. The upper bump stop is a little bigger diameter than the clear opening of the bellows.
The bellows is very flexible and can be worked onto the foam bump stop. I doubt that it would even 20210507_232856.jpg need a zip tie to hold that in place.

20210507_233332.jpg The bump stop moves on the piston with some resistance. So, anything that i use to make it go up and down the strut piston will have to grip the upper stop like the upper stop that is pressed into the rear shock mounting cup. That would give us a functional upper bump stop with a protective piston boot.
I am going to continue to work on it. Im still waiting for the front spring insulators.
Just out of curiosity, i compared the amount of resistance of a new upper bump stop to an original. No detectable difference between the new service parts and the 67k parts!
 


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