2015 Ford Fiesta Titanium engine rebuild

[Souljhorgn]

I have a 2015 Ford Fiesta Titanium Has 43890 miles , I owned it 2 years
Here is what am dealing with

• Blown head gasket- went out while I was on the freeway could not get over for at least ten minutes, was stuck in the fast lane. Engine light flashing – warning need to turn off engine – Catalytic converter damage could occur.
• Catalytic Converter gone and both sensors - the Oxygen up stream and downstream were toast melted to converter –replaced converter and both sensors – New Bolts and Nuts
• Had Head cleaned ,pressure tested and resurfaced – New bolts
• Valve lash was reset. Replaced some buckets with new ones as needed
• Changed out timing belt – new Bolts and belt
• PCM was damaged- Replaced with new one – Information was transferred to new PCM
• New Engine Gasket set was added
• New Fuel Injectors – under warranty
• New purge valve was added as old one had crack in tubing.
• Replaced old Factory Battery with New Interstate Battery
• Replaced old rusty Battery Cables- Negative Cable was cracked at ground, also removed paint at ground points on engine and body for better contact.
• Changed out Alternator with new one- could see sparks jumping around battery cable – Alternator was still under warranty
• New Cam oil gaskets
• New oil filter and synthetic Oil

Here is the engine codes that I have been getting on my scanner- I have a Topdon Phoenix Pro
Battery not getting a positive reading on Scanner, but checked on my other vehicle getting a +13 on scanner

Battery Voltage Codes
U3003:16-08 Battery Voltage Continuous Memory DTCs
U3003:16-28 Battery Voltage
U3003:16-88 Battery Voltage
U3006:16-08 Control Module Impute Power A Open Circuit HVAC
U0164:87-08 Missing Communication with HVAC IPC Instrument Panel Control
UE003:00-08 Ignition Input On IPC Instrument Panel Control
U300F:00-08 Ignition Input Accessory IPC Instrument Panel Control
U0423:00-08 Invalid data received form Instrument Panel

PCM Codes after first engine Start
P0172:00-EC Too Rich System Bank 1 -- Red
P0301:00-AF Random Misfire
P0301:00-AF Misfire Detected in Cylinder 1
P0304:00-AF Misfire Detected in Cylinder 4 --- Red
P0301:00-AF Misfire Detected on Startup

TCM codes after Engine Restart
P0702:00-28 Transmission Electrical system Fault --- Red
P0882:00-28 Transmission Electrical system Fault – Power input low Signal --- Red

I deleted all error codes and started the car and ran it for 35 minutes no error codes or no check engine light came on. I turned off car waited ten minutes then restarted fiesta and check engine light came back on. Rechecked codes and 5 fault codes were detected (They are underlined in red).
I also took screen shots of the codes see attachment files. I looked for battery sensor it was not located on battery cable (negative). Does this 2015 Ford Fiesta have a battery sensor? I tried to find it using my vin# but keep getting same message – No information found check vin# resubmit information. I checked this on Fordparts.com. Has anyone run into anything like this

 

[scotman]

Did you consider just buying a low mileage salvage engine and catalyst from a salvage yard?
You don't mention how many miles were on the original engine. Or, even how long you have owned your Fiesta. Im not sure what you are trying to communicate to us.

 

[Souljhorgn]

Sorry about that , the engine has 43000 miles on it and I owned it for just two years. I did think about getting a used engine but the ones offered to my had more miles then mine so decided to rebuild. Right now it runs but I can't locate what's causing the low voltage problems. Theres not voltage sensor on the negative cable. If its not on the cable then were would it be

 

[Handy Andy]

The PCM talks to the system using the CAM system, since you have titanium - it may also use the LIN system - so the LOW Voltage - may mean the Alternators output is bad or unable to talk to the system to even notify the Alternator exists - all your conditions show Bad Battery which is due to faulty regulator or regulation so something in the loop to the Alternators regulator is not working.

Have the Alternator tested - it can be a fail even from a reputable dealer.

Else the loop is thru the PCM and the Can Bus system for voltage sensing and communication for budgeting the power.

I'm just looking at this from a standpoint of Occams razor, if you've replaced the battery and the voltage is low and the alternator is also replaced - then the battery to be low; it's not being charged - else the Alternator would have brought up the battery voltage