2011 Ford Fiesta 1.4tdci No Start

[Ale-gawl]

Hi, I’m trying to fix a non-start issue on a 2011 Ford Fiesta 1.4tdci. I’m hoping there’s some experts on here which can help. There is fuel at the injectors, the car has compression, new glow plugs installed, but the car won’t run. The fuel filter has been replaced, and bled properly. The fuel pressure regulator has also been replaced with a brand new unit. The car will run on Ether/Easy Start, but won’t run off its own fuel supply. When replacing the glow plugs we cranked the car with 2 plugs removed, no fuel was being injected by the injectors in either cylinder. I have checked the fault codes, which returned nothing. I have monitored the live data for desired & actual fuel rail pressure whilst cranking, 25mpa desired, up to 70mpa cranking. I have tried multiple scan tools, none of them return any faults. What would stop the PCM / ECU from allowing diesel to be injected, but not log any fault codes?? When I unplug injectors, codes appear. When i disconnect the crank sensor the car stops cranking after a few seconds. When I disconnect the cam sensor, nothing changes - no codes and car continues to crank but not run. Really lost here and not sure what to try next. All help would be massively appreciated!

Thanks in advance, Alex.

 

[Handy Andy]

Diesel Engines are not our specialty so take this with a grain of salt - as needed...

The way this seems to be panning out, no start but will start on Starting Fluid - but not Diesel.

Two things...if you have new fuel (it rules out an obvious bad-fuel problem) - then the injectors not firing may help narrow this down to a signal the system is not finding a timing signal - so this leads us down a path of bad or broken timing belt or chain or jumped time and both cams are not synced so they cant' determine the firing order.

That will set a code soon enough.

So - the current symptoms mean (since you don't have codes - yet) the PCM can't get the Glo-plugs to heat up enough to ignite the Fuel but due to the compression - the alcohol-based starting fluid can ignite but it's not generating enough heat to sustain the combustion.

For the Ether to make it start but not run, can also be the opposite;

• that the Glo-plugs work fine, but there is not enough compression and that type of heat - possible due to jumped time or unable to build compression beyond what the Glo-Plugs offer to provide enough heat in the cylinder head to make it combust.

So then, this means a more thorough investigation - up to and including a compression check for worn cylinders or bad valves or a cam that is now warped onto a blown head gasket.

 

[Ale-gawl]

Hi Andy, thanks for your reply. I have done a compression check on each cylinder, all are in spec. No signs of a blown head gasket either, has good compression, no coolant / oil contamination. The timing suggestion is a good one, thank you - I will investigate this later and confirm the engine is timed correctly, although as you say if the timing has slipped I’d expect a fault code to be present, or even worse, the engine to be obviously damaged. I have verified the fuel is OK. I find it hard to believe the glow plugs are the problem, as genuine new ones have been fitted. To me it seems the ECU / PCM is preventing the injectors to pulse, for a currently unknown reason. Is there a defined list of requirements / checks the ECU / PCM makes before enabling the injectors to pulse? This would give me a checklist to work through.

You mention diesel engines are not the speciality here, are you aware of a better placed forum for this post?

Thanks again, Alex.

 

[Handy Andy]

This may just be a blown fuse too, I don't often ask about that for many that come here we can only presume that they've done some other checks up to and including getting current to make the Glo-plugs warm up.

Is there access to those plugs so you can feel them warming up the cylinder head? They should be able to warm up enough so you can feel the heat even at various places away from the plugs themselves so you don't get burned.

The "firing" timing signals are generated during the crank signal - so this may just mean that you'd have to go under the car and check to see if the Front pulley (Balancer) crankshaft position sensor isn't damaged. Its by that front belt and see if the belt itself didn't gouge or damage it's connector when you had to work on the car. Back side of the harmonic balancer - the little wedge shaped box should be it.

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If that's ok, then check the Camshaft position sensor on the cylinder head by that cam/belt cover and make sure it's seated and working...

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Then the Fuel pressure regulator may need a new Hi or Low - pressure switch - thinking this is one of the last ones because it normally doesn't know to look for Low pressure acknowledgement (turn on the pump during the crank you're getting that) but if the regulators been changed and the system is pumping fuel and it's not squirting out from excessive pressures - that usually indicated the pump knows when to shut off. So those references can be ruled out if the pump starts and runs then shuts off waiting for another demand call...

So this leads me back to the Cam and Crank timing - check those sensors.

 

[Ale-gawl]

Hi Andy, thanks again for your detail response. I have checked all fuses, that’s where I typically start when fault finding. The glow plugs do warm up, I have just confirmed that. The crankshaft sensor appears to be fine, when I disconnect it a fault code is logged and the car stops cranking. Now when I unplug the camshaft position sensor a fault is being logged, but it doesn’t prevent the car from cranking. Not sure if this is normal?

You mention the fuel pressure regulator may need a new hi or low pressure switch, where is this located? I have also been reading online people with similar issues referring to an inlet metering valve (IMV). Is this the same as the regulator? Does the 1.4tdci engine have a FPR and an IMV??

 

[Handy Andy]

This is part of that answer I gave earlier - I don't own a Diesel - although I'd love to tinker with one for I know it does make the worlds of many able to function due to the scarcity and very limited access of finer refined fuels like gasoline in given areas - work with what you have to get you thru this - type of approach.

As far as the Fuel regulation - this may be more of a; swap out the new, put back in the old - to see what changed.

Why? One simple reason, Connector Memory, the older connector terminals may have had a different diameter or Sizing of their terminal outline - while newer ones are made from a different point of origin and they use what they call their own Dimensioning parameters based upon their review of parts when they attain a bid to continue making parts from a former supplier whom still owns the rights to the product but (Insert Manufacturing Brand Here) wants a new supplier because the old one either quit, gone out of business or doesn't make it anymore because there is no money to be made in making it.

It doesn't mean the part is bad, just not dimensioned as it once was.

• Meaning; the part - once installed using the older connector pigtail - will not operate. Many a reason for this including; not able to properly connect to the terminals in the new part even though they fit together and are wired correctly - their spacing makes the terminal connection weak or fail due to improper sizing and or contact surface pressures (crimping) are not making contact or the older pigtail is corroded and not longer makes functional connections.
• New Pigtail...needs one from their new supplier to make the new part work...sigh...
• Put back in the older regulator and see it the system will now start - if it does, the new part was either faulty or the terminal dimension and outlines - including their wiring were suspect as failed parts.

This goes back to a simpler time of knowing the REVISION code of the part - if you were able to find a part with a similar Ford FoMoCo String with the last two digits closer to AA or AB than BC or DD type of revision due to the make and year the parts were made were of later revisions of the part to make it compliant to the latter years of vehicle production.

 

[Ale-gawl]

Hi Andy. I have tried all you’ve suggested - still to no avail. Really at a loss here.
Are you aware of a better placed forum for this post?

 

[Handy Andy]

Although the motors are different - The F-150 Forums might offer more help than we can. Many on those forums use Diesel and may turn you in a better direction to go to get help.

If it's any consolation - we wish you the best in getting this resolved - and I hope as you work thru this, if the answer comes and the engine starts and runs - and your back up again, let us know...

We'll leave the light on for you...

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