Ford Fiesta Dashboard Clock Cluster Error

Hello!
I have a 2007 FORD JC3 Fiesta Van 1.4 tdci MK5. Engine code: F6JB

My problem is that the clock often drops the hands, the LCD display disappears or "-" lines appear, or the immobilizer often flashes and the SRS light usually comes on.
It doesn't always do the same thing. The car doesn't even have to move, shake, run the engine or do anything, the clock just disappears and then the clock comes back.
I also resoldered the PCB-26-PIN connector, moved, pulled all the cables (at the clock unit and ECU, under the battery, in the glove compartment), checked all the fuses/relays, checked all the connectors (ECU, clock unit (26PIN)), but nothing solved the problem. I replaced it with an identical Ford clock unit, but it did the same thing, so it's probably not the clock.

Has anyone had a similar problem?
Does anyone know a wiring diagram for the 26-pin clock connector?
Or maybe an electrical diagram for the car that shows where the wires come from and what colors they are?

Thanks a lot for your help!

Are you losing any other instruments or displays in the console, like backlit dash-lighting?

If not the Clock system itself can fail, it's memory backup and keep alive system it uses to help keep the time while the engine gets started and when off, seems to have failed - meaning either replacement, or the power supply filtering on-board the display are bad, they no longer hold a charge or can filter out spikes causing these intermittent crashes.

Don't have any schematic for that, but in light of the issue, the caps (capacitors used to filter and keep power timing for the clock) , onto a simple blown diode to route power to only the keep alive memory when the ignition is shut off (Battery backup) may have opened due to bad capacitors or a voltage spike that Murphy and his Laws claimed, the the 2 cent fuse will be protected from blowing by having the most expensive part in the circuit it protects - blow first.

Ford, GM every automaker, seems to have followed his advice.

Nagyon szépen köszönöm a válaszát

Ritkán kapcsol ki a rádió, vagy tűnjön el a jelzőfénye

Nem az óra, hanem a sebességmérő/fordulatszámmérő/üzemanyagszint-jelző/vízhőmérséklet-jelző
Az óracsoportnak írtam, mármint a műszerfalnak.

„II”-re kapcsolom a gyújtást, és az óra gyakran forog, az immo gyorsan villog. Mindent mozgatok, de semmi változás. Hirtelen, 1-10 perc között, megjavul a műszerfal, és beindítható az autó.
Voltak esetek, amikor a mutatók leestek vezetés közben, majd visszajöttek. Az autó továbbment.

Kicseréltem a műszerfalat (egy másikra, amin ugyanolyanok a műszerek), és gyújtásráadáskor ugyanezt csinálja, de az autó sosem indul el vele, mert más az indításgátló.

If you can understand this...had to use translate to read it - not sure if you're issue is related to the ones in this thread - some would call that hi-jacking a thread - but I hope the OP in reviewing this - will understand.

The Fiesta system uses modules like the Instrument Cluster (PODS or HEC), Audio System, PCM (Powertrain Control Module and TCM (Transmission Control Module), and the BCM (Body Control Module) in a tied together network (CAN-Bus) to store data redundantly in case a Module in the system fails. Replacing the module and putting the vehicle in a learn mode, the dealers can then re-train the module with the info stored in the other Modules to allow it to function as the replacement of the module that was bad - like it never happened.

When you swapped modules the system prevented starting because one the different modules have different features enabled from the different vehicles they were used in before they got put into yours. The system uses the CAN-Bus to talk to the modules and if one or some are not right - it can lock-down any attempt to start the Car just by the facts that specific features in each vehicle are also copied and compared to the redundant systems in your own car. If they don't match - the system calls it a fail and shuts down - preventing; theft, drive-offs or other types of tampering to bypass MOT/DOT issues and inspection.

So if you're having issues - this sounds like a bad harness or some can-bus miscommunication was occurring on your OEM installed modules - which; when you swapped out - trying to start your car - it failed; proving it was not matching. So best advice is to get the OEM modules you did have, back in the system, and re-inspect the Harness for the system uses CAN-bus as like a measure of last resort to clear-codes and perform a maintenance routine as part of an integrity check. When the modules, or a set of modules fails due to a catastrophic event like battery died or cut-into harness caused by corrosion or bad sensors like Airbag, Seat-belt or even the car alarms own Battery Backup sounder fail due to a dead alarm battery it uses - the system loses memory and until an integrity check can be done, like the CAN-Bus does - you can't make the vehicle go anywhere.

If this sounds like what you're experiencing then you'll have to take it to a dealer to let them find the bad module causing the continuous loop-integrity check so you can even get your car working - it may also indicate your car keys (or fob) is not matching up to the string ID the RF-ID PATS system uses for the RF transceiver to unlock your car to use and drive. It could be as simple as a failed amplifier module in your cars antenna - caused by static or a close-by lightning strike. How? The RF-id needs a clean signal from the Fob to clear the immobilizer-function so it can run.

Caught this too, so I wanted to add, Ford uses a type of power-down mode for specific areas of the vehicle - it's why lights are left on as you enter or exit the vehicle so it can remember specific types of actions and store them in memory - as well as a timer function to keep the dashboard lit up until a set times passes.

• - if you had this vehicle for a while you may not have noticed until recently, the dash and the lighting power down modes it did have are changed.
• IF this is the case the issue may be with the Body Control Module that uses the Battery.
  • IF the Module can't get clean power - as the means to the method of powering down and storing data for the next start-up and help keep settings current so it doesn't annoy you with having to reset the specific setting all the time. It also affects other redundant systems including the Miles traveled trip odometer as well as AVG mpg and AVG Speed including km or MPH conversions.
  • The system can have a Battery Minder circuit or relay bypass on the Ground cable side of the Battery cables.
  • IF this minder function is not properly reset - it can trigger because it thinks the amount of time elapsed is too long and shuts down - but if it's been bypassed or the Body Control Module can't get power to know the difference between a Good Battery or a Light left on too long - it will do stuff like this as a quirk because the system is not able to clear itself.
  • once the battery is drained down by accident or something got left on in the car and the system powers down and forces a reset-like feature of losing clock to identify a possible problem with the battery - drain minder in the system is getting kicked in to help keep the battery alive until you can start it up again. If not properly reset - it can keep doing this until it's "taught" not to do it again and work as a monitor - not a fail-safe device.

Sorry for the translator, I copied something wrong, I didn't see it.
All units are original, and it does the job.

I have a car with almost the same engine problem and I replaced the dashboard just to test it. I turned on the ignition and waited. The pointers on the other clock also fell off, then came back after a while. (The car obviously didn't start, I just wanted to rule out that the dashboard was at fault) I put the original back on, and often there is no power to one part of the clock, and the pointers are off, the red LED flashes quickly, and the car doesn't start. Then after a lot of moving, pulling out the 26-pin PIN connector, putting it back on, turning the ignition off and on, it suddenly works and the car starts. The pointers also fall off while driving - the car keeps going - then they come back on.
Unfortunately, brand service costs more than the car, and there have been cases where they asked for a lot of money, but the fault was not fixed. Then they don't undertake such troubleshooting. They say they can't do it. (this is Hungary)
Electrical mechanic says (on the phone, telling me the faults, he didn't see the car) that: "type fault - ABS cube fault. The car is rubbish, because it's not worth fixing."
Everything worked fine until now, but suddenly this problem came up. There was no part replacement recently, no mechanic has had anything like this for 3 years.
I don't fully understand your description of the BCM module.
When stopped, the voltage in the system is 12.9V. I've cleared the fault codes many times.
How do I know which module is bad? Can I swap them or just pull the connector and remove it from the system?

Thank you very much for your very detailed answers and the energy you spend on me

Ok, you mentioned a connector, and by removing then putting it back on, means the wiring in it is suspect.

The "BCM" is a module that Ford uses; as a fork or branch of the cars wiring and electrical system to handle car chassis issues like Seat-belts, Anti-skid (ABS) and lighting that used to use the PCM - for in earlier times all the systems had their own support. Then they (Ford amongst others) made their systems modular to make it easier to consolidate specific systems into one area that didn't burden other systems with redundant support or having to wire all of it together.

You're ability to run the motor and watch the clock fail while driving - shows this effect of that battery minder circuit might need attention and somehow be reset to keep the clock; as a barometer of health - working - the longer it keeps time, the system is operational.

So in this case, this may be the wiring is failing - not because of direct damage, but by age and the typical vibrations forming shear events that affect the pins of the connector, and it may not just be at this one specific spot. It may be in the entire chain of connections supplying power - the (the pins and their sockets) develop a memory when they've attached to each other for a long period of time. The heat and moisture, along with vibrations, make the metals and their plating used; begin to galvanize or "fixate" or lose tensile and ductility and only give; bend or stay in a shape in a certain fashion until the environment and connections with their seals - force a break - then a gap forms and the connections become weaker and weaker. To a point where even the crimps used in the harnesses for those wires - they will fail and let wires literally fall out, unknowing to the user and it's all buried in the tape, seals and loom plastics the engineers used to dampen the vibration, reduce the exposure and maintain physical connection for as long as possible. This may be the end of the road for the vehicles' wiring - which; as a [personal decision] physical effort to replace and repair takes labor and costs that make it more of a cost-prohibitive labor of love than a means to simply keep it on the road.