AC not working after Starter replacement

I recently replaced my starter and the AC stopped working. I checked the freon level and it says its over charged...which I know is not right because the AC worked fine before changing the starter. Then I realized the compressor was not kicking on nor the fan that sits behind the radiator. The fan inside works but blows hot air. I've checked the relays for the compressor and AC...not sure what that works but on my diagram it has a snowflake and says AC lol I switched them out with other relays and still nothing. I did go back under the car and trace the wires to the plug for the compressor and its plugged in. I read that disconnecting the battery could cause the blend door to be stuck in the wrong place but wanted to check other ideas before tracing down HVAC relays and fuses like google said to do.

Weeks before we did hear a squeaking noise from under the hood that sounded like a bearing in the area of the belt. Belt is new btw....and thought maybe this was a sign the compressor was going out and it was a coincidence that it stopped after the starter replacement.

If the Starter is OK, you may have bumped or cut the wires to the A/C clutch - check the fuses and inspect the wiring to the AC clutch - the Loom it is in - make sure you didn't inadvertently cut or pinch a wire in the harness going to the AC clutch during your installation.

In the Engine bay, the Fuses are F41 (10 amp RED) and F26 - which may be either a 7.5A (blue or amber) or 15A - check your owners manual for Fuse location and numbering at the time that car was made. It can change thru the years this vehicle was made.

• Example, the Schematic I have - shows power that goes to the Clutch uses F30 - but my owners manual claims it's Fuse is F41 while the "means" to power its' relay-coil comes from another Fuse that goes to the Powertrain Module in the Engine bay. That fuse is F24 - if it's blown it can affect more than this AC unit - it may power other Relays (see S163? - That means the wire to that Relay is SPLICED in from another feeder wire in the area.)

Here's a working schematic of the AC Clutch relay and wiring - note and pay attention to; and verify, the color codes



Relay R45 is your AC clutch relay.
To see if the wiring is intact, don't Start or Run the engine - leave it Off. Just use any DVM in the 200Ω Ohm setting and pull the R45 Relay - locate it's Pin 5 and map it to your Fuse-block - then place one Tester lead in the slot/Hole in the Fuse block and the Other to battery Ground Post - see if you can complete the Circuit - should be less than 60 Ω in resistance - but not ZERO or lower (Less) than 5Ω (You may see 4.7Ω but that's OK, just not ZERO or dead short stuff - less than 1 ohm)

If you get no readings, make sure you did pull R45, and look at it's "Schematic" or pin-out diagram if it's still legible - the Relay should have a schematic or Pinout design to show which pin does what in the Relay...

If it shows a short, the Loom it's in needs to be inspected - if it's open - same thing but look for breaks in the wiring loom to help locate the internal break.

After some inspection I found that the Compressor is shot. The clutch is engaged, in snug against the body of the compressor, and it just spins freely. No resistance at all and it will not disengage. So I've got the new compressor, I'm gonna have the freon bled out of the system and do the replacement myself. Can I get away with just replacing the compressor or do I have to do the canister and that dryer part? I do all the work on both our vehicles and am very capable with the right youtube video and guidance.

Mostly, yes, if the system is still holding Freon - means the Oil in it is ok too. The real question is how the compressor failed - so when it's taken off, it needs to be inspected.

You'll have to look for debris, if the lines show sediment or bit's and pieces of filings and sludge embedded in the oil - it will be darkened with it. If you see that, the lines and the dryer / accumulator - will have to be flushed, and even the expansion valve port should be replaced - it's been reamed out with debris so it won't help with forming an expansion port to cool thru the evaporator.